Tuesday, March 06, 2007

29 October 2006

Dear Aymory

What a beautiful morning. Apparently there is some sort of foot race on today that is ending in Plaza d'Obradoiros. This certainly makes for an interesting mix of people here.

Went to mass and the Cathedral is packed! A lot of tourist groups in the church. I don't know why, but I am continually amazed at the bad behaviour of people - groups standing right in front of the altar talking over the priest who is saying mass, photographing despite requests not to, eating sloppy meals and making a mess. At any rate, it was a beautiful mass. I managed to sit at the front. At the end of mass, they swung the botifumeiro, the massive incense burner that is only swung on special occassions. It takes 8 men on long ropes to get it moving and when it finally is up to speed, it swings from one side of the transept to the other, streaming clouds of buring incense. It's original purpose in the middle ages was to mask the overpowering smell of the pack, unwashed bodies of the pilgrims gathered in the church (oh, remember Lavacolla - unwashed, except for their genitals!) It was an impressive sight!

Hung out in the square for a while. It serves as a meeting place for pilgrims. Later, I met up with Peter and Farrah and we went off for lunch. Lunch lasted some 4 hours and was a lot of fun. We found a sidewalk cafe where there was room for Aneka, their daughter, to wander a bit safely and enjoyed good food, wine and conversation. The American pilgrims, David and Christina, came by and joined us for some wine.

All too soon, it was over. Peter and Farrah leave at 5:00 AM for Australia; David and Chrsitina at 8:00 AM. Dave Williams called from Toronto and we had a nice chat.

Later, I went to the square where I just sat and watched the people passing by and the light slowly changing. The Cathedral looks impressive against the clear blue sky and equally so against a starry sky.

Home by midnight and slept well.

Ultreya