Dear Aymory
Well, it was a less than stellar night's sleep! My shoulder ached and it was so damp because of all of the rain, I just couldn't seem to get warm. It was pitch dark til 8:45 AM. Left at 9:15 - in the rain (what else).
Hadn't walked very far when I met Madeleine from Australia walking back. They had left in the dark to get a head start but apprently, Madeleine left her wallet/purse back at the albergue.
Nothing like having to retrace your footsteps in the pouring rain to 'dampen' your spirits. Her Mom is in a bar up the road a few kilometers. I continued walking til I came to the bar is Lestedo. Decided to stop and have a coffee -who knows, maybe even warm up. Joined Bev and chatted with her til Madeleine returned, empty-handed. Decided to move on.
Overall, despite the rain, it is a nice walk. Rolling countryside, ancient 'castros' or celtic hill forts, cruceiros or road side crosses dating back 1/2 a millenia. A kilometer out of Hospital de la Cruz, I passed the site of a bloody battle fought in 820 between Christians and Moors. The castros pre-date the Romans.
I was tired by the time I reached Palas de Rei, a town that is over 1000 years old. I found a private pension across the street from the albergue. The 15 Euro difference in cost is worth it, I hope, for a warm room. On the way, I had met a family from Sweden - Mom, Dad and 3 girls about 7, 4 and 1. 'That's brave' is all I could think about. I saw them later at the albergue across the street. Had a nap, did some washing and made a lunch in my room - the usual of bread, cheese, chorizo and wine. Later, when it had stopped raining, I went for a walk. Went into a bar and met 5 other peregrinos - Swiss, german, Australian and a New Zealander. We chatted away in English for a while. The German fellow is averaging 40 kilometers a day! They told me of a guy who had just completed the Camino in 12 days - averaging something like 60 or 70 kilometers a day! Someone said they had seen his credential. Can't get my mind around that Seems like a marathon or sports event. Who knows. For me, I do know that I have needed the time to let things happen, to percolate as it were.
Called Mom who was pleased to hear from me. Also say down for the first time with the manual for my phone (always a good idea at some point). Figured out how to send text messages - and practised on some friends - lol. Went to bed (warm!!) and slept well.
Ultreya