22 October 2006

Dear Aymory

Got up to ......... (wait for it) .... rain! What a surprise. Left in the gloom in a hard rain. In the early morning darkness and pouring rain, I got lost. Walked in circles and re-entered the square probable 3 times which really frustrated me. Tought of the movie "Groundhog Day". Eventually found my way out of town. Talked to a French pilgrim who stayed in the albergue. I guess it was a hell of a night there! Apparently 2 guys got into a fight and 1 tried to set the other guys sleeping bag on fire - with him in it. There was a flasher in the women's shower room. Later on, someone else lost it and began to hit people with his walking stick until a group of men set upon him with theirs! And all I did was sleep soundly in my little room - lol. No wonder there were 3 pilgims sleeping in the rain in the town square!

Walked over a rickety bridge and up through woods that, in the 1100's was a large, well-known open-air brothel. No trade today - lol.

Even though I walked in rain, it was a nice day. Reached Castromaior and considered staying at a local private pension but there was nothing else around - village square, restaurant or bar. So, decided to continue on to Hospital de la Cruz. Found a private pension there (Meson Labrador) which was just FANTASTIC. Crackling fire in the hearth, excellent food, cold beer, terrific wine and a clean room. Had a nap and went for dinner. Met the same 2 Australian women. Our table was a scream! The owner was fabulous and we had a great conversation - including his friend from Portugal. La Senoria brought me an herbal drink based on Orujo - the strong liquor of Galicia. It tasted great and I know it was only medicinal!

This is a perfect place to stop in rural Galicia - thick stone walls, warm fire, chestnuts by the ton, great food and conversation with the owners followed by a comfortable bed - can you ask for more? Think I will sleep well tonight.

Ultreya