24 October 2006

Dear Aymory

Up early. Had breakfast in my room and left as soon as I could (8:40). It rained (what else) - hard, soft, drizzle, sometimes it even stopped for a bit. Despite the rain, It was a good walk and, without trying, I set a fast pace. Covered 11 kilometres in 2 hours. Decided to carry on rather than stay here as I had tentatively planned. Reached Melida by 12:30. A great pace but feeling tired. And I was also drenched. Then, to cap off a good day's walk, I got lost. Ended up walking an additional 3 kilometres.

There is a pulperia in Melide which has become very well-known. (A pulperia is a restaurant that serves one of Galicia's famous dishes, octopus or 'pulpo'. It is cooked in large hammered copper pots over an open fire, sliced, sprinkled with paprika and olive oil and served on wooden platters to be eaten with small wooded skewers.) Puleria Ezekial was my destination and I was not disappointed. The restaurant is completely open at the front - you just walk in off the treet. Walking in from the pouring rain, the warmth from the big fire in the hearth was delicious. I took a seat along a bench table ( everyone eats at these long bench tables) and placed my order. As I waited I watched people coming in and picking up orders that had obviously called in earlier. A waitress came with a clay jug of Ribeira wine and a small round ceramic dish to drink from. Ribeira wine turns cloudy when exposed to the air and tastes absolutely delicious. Along with baskets of chunks of warm bread fresh from the oven, it was a feast for a weary walker.

I booked a room in a local pension as I waited for dinner. During lunch, the 2 Australian guys came in and we chatted a bit. After lunch, I found my way to the pension. The room was OK but it was cold - no heat! I was told the heat is only turned on in January! That was the end of that room. Went to a small hotel, booked a room, argued for a space heater (and got it). Completely warm for the first time today. Dried my clothes, had a hot shower and took a nap.

My Spanish teacher called me and we chatted a bit. Although I'm sure my Spanish makes her flinch, I am grateful for her help. I can effectively communicate, which was my original goal.

Went out for dinner later in the evening. It was very mild and, surprise surprise, not raining!

After dinner, I had a nice chat with the woman who runs the hotel. Went to bed.

During the night, there was continual thunder and lightening and monsoon rains. Tomorrow should be fun.

Ultreya