18 October 2006

Dear Aymory

Up and gone at first light. At the end of the main street, there is a T intersection: left for Samos and right for Sarria. Both routes end up in Sarria but the road through Samos is a day longer. Decided to contiue directly to Sarria following the main Camino.

It was a beautiful walk. Tough in a few places, but overall, just gorgeous. Ate my lunch near a small river. Later on, I stopped on a little bridge by a river to both take in the view and to rest. An Italian cyclist came along and we chatted a bit. I asked him how far to Sarria as I guessed we were fairly close. He gave me a funny look and said he didn't know but ........ Samos was only a few kilometers further on!

I couldn't believe my ears! Somehow, even though I took correct turn in Tricastela, I must have made an error somewhere outside of town. I have inadvertantly added another days walking. Good Lord! This is the longer, more difficult route and certainly NOT what the plan called for. Nothing to do but carry on. The woods are mostly chestnut and oak and the Camino is often a stone-walled path. In another few kilometers I entered the village of Samos. As it turned out, I am so glad I went this way.

As I entered the village, I met the Dutch woman I had walked and chatted with in Leon. Had a cup of coffee with her. She is going on but I have decided to stay. It's a short day - only 11 km but the weather is closing in and I want to visit the centre-piece of this village - the magnificcent Monasterio de Samos. Founded around 560 AD, it rose to become one of the great centres of learning. Its library was one of the finest in all of Europe until it was tragically destroyed by fire in 1951.

I got a room in a lovely private pension - when I got my kit into the room, the woman brought me to the kitchen and asked if I would like a glass of wine or a cold beer - the beer won and it tasted good. I went out and found a bank machine and this time, my card worked. I was starting to get worried as I was down to a handul of Euros.

More typical gallego weather has set in. It is just teeming rain Its not cold but is it ever intense. You simply cannot see the buildings across the road! I'm glad I stopped because the next town is 12-13 km away. That distance would be hard enough for me - even more in this rain.

Had a great meal in a restaurant - desert was something else - whisky cake! It's cake and ice cream with whisky poured over it. I had to stop the waiter - it looked like he was going to pour the entire bottle over it! Re-worked my plan during my meal. If I stick with say 13 km a day, I can be in Santiago de Compostela by the end of the month. Its an easy pace, especially if this rain continues which can certainly be the case in this part of the world. I really want to enjoy this last 100-120 km. Called home and chatted with Mom. Called Danielle as well and left a message for Michael. Went back to my room, stopping to buy groceries on the way. Had a nap.

Went to Vespers (evening prayers) at the Monastery. It was sung in Gregorian Chant. It was simply beautiful. An ancient gothic chapel, dim lighting and that magnificent music! After Vespers, I walked around the cloister for a bit and then went to mass in the main chapel. It too was sung and time seemed to stand still. I am sooo glad I ended up walking this way.

Walked back to my room in the poring raim. The husband of the couple who own this pension invited me in for a glass of his own wine. It was good wine and we had a good conversation. He refused payment for the beer his wife gave me earlier, saying it was an act of hospitality that they extend to all pilgrims. Later, I returned to my room where I made a simple meal. Read a bit, fixed the bandage on my foot and went to bed. Hope its not raining in the morning.

Ultreya