Left Toronto 1 month ago! What a month!
Cool, damp and cloudy day. Up and out at first light (8:30) . Walked about 5 km to Hospital de Condessa for breakfast. Met Bernadette leaving the bar - she had left before dawn. Chatted with an American pilgrim while enjoying an excellent cup of cafe con leche. Left and continued
climbing up (no surprise there!) to Alto de Poio. In the village on the pass is a tiny, snug bar with a cheery fire crackling in the hearth. Sat by the fire and warmed my bones as I savoured a hot coffee. This little village used to belong to the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, the Knights of Malta who operated a hospice here and patrolled the pass.Leaving the bar and the village, the Camino began a long descent. Now, I'm not complaining, but steep drops can be just as arduous and 600 metres (approx 2,500 feet) is a strenuous drop. Decided to go on to Biduedo.
It was a beautiful walk to Biduedo - got there about 1:30, rather footsore. If I wanted, I could get a room here but there is still walking time left. What to do. Do I try for As Pasantes, 5 km further? If there is 'no room at the inn', its another 2-3 km further to Triacastela. Decided to go for it. I know it doesn't sound like much, but to me, another 8 km represents some 2 hours more of walking and I am always the last person to arrive at an albergue which means a real risk of no bed.
Got to As Pasantes and for neither love nor money could I find the the little inn. No-one there seemed to know it either. Might as well get going. Onward to Triacastela. It was a pleasant walk there and I arrived about 3:30 - not bad time for what turned out to be closer to 9 km in 2 hours. Had an interesting incident along the way. As I was walking along, I heard my full name being called out. I turned and there was a Spaniard coming up behind me. He introduced himself as Iniego and asked if I was Michael Leahy. When I said 'yes', he held out his hand - and my credential! It must have fallen out of my pocket somewhere behind me. It took my breath away.
Found a nice little inn. Got my own room with a very tiny bathroom (and even tinier shower). There are a number of bars and restaurants here and this used to be an important stopping point along the Camino. The town was established around 860 AD. Visited the church for my stamp and then bought some chorizo, bread and wine and sat in the small garden of the inn to write. Made some calls home as well. Went to bed and slept very well (after checking my credential was safely packed away!).
Ultreya
