16 October 2006

Dear Aymory

This would be what Vince Leahy calls a 'character-building' day. I climbed about 800 meters (2,600 feet) over a distance of some 11 kilometers. It was a lovely day. Up (always up!) quiet lanes and paths. Thought at times my lungs and heart would burst! The views however are fantastic. Got out of the way of a herd of cattle on a narrow stretch of the Camino - a very mucky trail behind that herd.

Got to O Cebeiro about 2:30 - not bad time but totally done in. Got a room in the albergue and slept for about an hour. The weather here on this mountain can be very bad and summer snowstorms are not unheard of. The other thing is that it is soooo changeable, going from clear sunny skies to fog and then driving rain accompanied by a fast-falling thermometer - all in a relatively short time.

When I woke up, the weather had indeed changed for the worse. The temperature had probably dropped by 10-12 oC, dense fog had rolled in accompanied by a cold, hard rain. I showered and headed out to get a meal. Here is where I miss my fleecy and my jacket. Found a snug little bar - thick stone walls, a roaring firelace to keep the chill off and the soft murmur of voices and accents from around the world. And realized I had left my money clip on my bunk. Hurried back in the rain hoping I would not have a repeat of the theft in Estella. Everything was exactly where I had left it. But, who did I meet but Bernadette, the Irish lawyer I had last seen in Viana. She had just arrived so maybe we may be able to chat latter. Back through the rain to the bar, The splash of yellow light through the open upper 1/2 of the wooden door onto the wet cobble stones was so inviting. Found a table near the fire and enjoyed a relaxing drink as the wind howled outside.

Perhaps its just the weather but got to thinking. "Maybe I'm just flailing my oars in the wind. Why finish? I think I have what I want. Ego? To say 'I did it?' " Made me think of the people who treat it as a competition - who did the most kilometers that day, who did it the fastest. I don't have an answer but I did notice that there was now sleet mixed in with the driving rain. This could be a cold night. Wonder what tomorrow will be like.

Bernadette joined me about an hour later and we had a good dinner. We talked and debated for the rest of the evening. It was good fun and I felt better with the rest, a good meal and good company. Back to the albergue and into bed. Slept well but the room was small, hot and stuffy with 8 of us crammed in together. BUT, better than being cold!

Ultreya