15 October 2006

Dear Aymory

Ponferrada in the dim light of pre-dawn. Alberto dropped me off in the centre of town, by a yellow arrow. I watched him pull away with a wave, adjusted my ruck and headed west. I felt very well rested. Although my shoulder still ached, the medication was working and the painkillers did their job. My feet and knee where feeling fine. And I had a full day ahead of me to walk. It was 6:30 AM and my goal was Villafranca del Bierzo, about 20 km ahead. Estimated I'd be there by shortly after noon.

Although it was dark, the camino was relatively easy to follow as it was well marked. As dawn broke, I found myself walking through recently-harvested vineyards. If anyone has read or seen the 'Sharpe' series about a company of riflemen in the Napoleonic wars in Spain, the town of Cacabelos would appeal. During the first attempt to take on the French via Spain, the British army under Sir John Moore was badly mauled. They were in a full retreat, verging on a rout, across Galicia to the port city of A Coruna where boats were waiting for them (shades of Dunkerque?). At any rate, in Cacabelos, a rifleman named Thomas Plunkett shot the French General through the head, bringing the French army to a standstill. This enabled Moore to continue his escape. Little did he know he was to die in A Coruna.

Villafranca del Bierzo is a beautiful small town that seemed to be bypassed by the industrial revolution. The town centre is a maze of narrow little streets and the town is also home to a most beautiful parador - one of the unique hotels operated by the Spanish government in restored castles, monestaries and casa grandes. As expected, I had made good time and there were no warning 'twinges' from my knee. It was 12:30 and I had to decide - go on or stay. There are 2 villages about 4 km apart past Villafranca, each with an albergue or small hotel. Having stayed in Villafranca in other years, I decided to walk to Pereje and then decide whether or not to continue. Got to Pereje about 1:30. Tired! The albergue was definitely simple. Asked a how far to the next albergue and was told about an hour walk. I hadn't seen many pilgrims so I decided to go for it, knowing that there is an albergue and 3 hotels in La Portela.

Arrived at 3:00. I'm beat - knee starting to ache a bit. Checked out the small hotel and for only 5 Euros more, I got a small room. There was a bar in the hotel so I just had a short to dinner.

Rested, showered, ate, chatted a bit with some local people and went to bed early- its been a long day.

Ultreya