Woke up from a sound sleep. My shoulder and arm still ache but the various drugs I'm taking are helping. As soon as I got up, I saw my clothes neatly folded on a side table. Apparently after
I feel asleep, Nieves came into my room, took all my clothes and washed them. What can you say!Some pilgrimage! This morning at breakfast, Alberto announced that he would like to have bacalao (a Gallego delicacy made with cod) for dinner. I asked if there was a restaurant in the village (doubtiing it). Alberto just chuckled and pointed to the mountains - "over there - in Portugal!". First though, we picked up their niece Loly who is a math teacher in the local high school. On the way, we drove out to an old hermitage called Las Ermitas. Tucked into a deep
narrow valley, the church is stunning. We stopped in a village for our mid-day meal. During the meal, I probably answered a thousand questions about the Camino. They were keenly interested in what I was doing, although I think I noticed Nieve's shake her head a few times - lol.Portugal was closer than I thought and the bacalao was indeed delicious. On the way back, we stopped at an old, unused house in the countryside. There, we met a group of Alberto's friends. It turned out that everyone of them was related somehow. We drank fabulous wine, ate homemade chorizo (a delicious Spanish sausage), fresh-baked bread and chestnuts and walnuts collected from the neighbouring trees - all amid much laughter and animated conversation. A man came by with a boar that he had shot. There it was - in the trunk of his car! Drank more wine, ate more chorizo and examined the boar again. All-in-all, a fabulous time. And the wonderful thing is - this wasn't done for me. This is the natural Spanish hospitality and zest for living.
When we returned, we went to Loly's home and, again, enjoyed some fabulous wine that comes from the bodega or winery that Alberto co-owns. (He also likes to keep his hand directly in the winemaking process and makes his own - in a small barn outside of town, he has some 15,000 liters of red and white wine fermenting!). My shoulder was aching like hell but the pills (and the wine) helped.
Pierre Arnold called me. He had spoken with Vince Leahy and heard about my (mis) adventures and called to express his concern. We laughed about my pilgrimage detour to Portugal BUT - I did get to see the Ruta de la Plata, the 1000 kilometer Camino from Sevilla, far to the south. We crossed it on our way across the mountains to Portugal. We'll talk about that in Toronto.
Alberto is picking me up about 5:30 AM to take me back to Ponferrada so I can continue. Better enjoy this bed tonight!
Ultreya
