Sunday, January 07, 2007

13 October 2006

Dear Aymory

As a historical note, 699 years ago today, the order of the famed Knights Templar was brutally suppressed giving rise to the superstition of Friday the 13th being a day of bad luck.

Woke up in excruciating pain. Something is seriously wrong with my left shoulder and arm. As the hours passed, it only got worse. I tried to leave to continue but the pain was so intense that continuing was simply out of the question. I could not lift my ruck without help and when I set out, the pain of its weight on my shoulder was terrible. Ponferrada is just up ahead so a decision was made to take me to the hospital there. Tomas’ friend Teofilo and an Italian pilgrim named Federika took me and it was a pain-clouded trip down the mountainside.

Even without a European health insurance card, the doctors took me and began to run tests. They determined that I had torn muscles and cartiledge and ligaments in my shoulder. – Great! After some 6 hours, I was released with my arm in a sling and a bag full of drugs. Teofilo and Federika had stayed with me the entire time and now helped me find a room. Words cannot convey how grateful I am to them for all that they did for me.

Once I got into my cell-like room, I took the drugs and fell into a drug-induced sleep for the rest of the day. What a situation – first feet, then knee, now this. What next? At least the drugs work.

After waking, I found that I could manage with the painkillers. Have decided to take another day or even 2 to just rest up and heal. If this clears up, I think I’m OK for the last 200 km. So much for Friday the 13th! Went back to bed.

Woke up to my phone ringing – it was Vince Leahy! He and Pierre Arnold and Dave Williamson had finished their Camino and were back in Canada. It was great to hear his voice as I was feeling at the bottom of the barrel. Felt cheered by our chat.

Spoke with my friend Alberto who lives in a nearby town. We had been looking forward to getting together but I suggested that it might not work this time as I was not in great shape. His reply was to say that he would be here in and hour or so. Went back to bed to get some more sleep before he arrives.

About 2 hours later, Alberto and his sister Nieves arrived. Nieves insisted I vacate the hotel and come stay with them. It was simply too good an offer to refuse (as if Nieves would listen anyways) and after getting a partial refund from the hotel, I was on my way. My Spanish is holding up well. An hour later, we were at their home and I was settled. I have decided that I am going to take a 2 day pause in my walk to recuperate and visit.


After getting settled, we went out to visit some of their friends and afterwards, Nieves made a terrific dinner. Soon after, I was in bed – a soft, immaculately clean bed, with real pillows in a lovely room. I slept like a stone. What a day.

Ultreya