26 Sept. 2006 Los Arcos to Viana

Dear Aymery

Walked 19 km today. Not too bad but knee still hurts a lot. I have decided not to do more than 20 km a day, if possible as I seem to run into trouble about the 18 km mark.

Most of the day, I walked through farm fields over rolling countryside. It was a pretty good day. Miles of vinyards in a wide, long valley. Paused in Sansol for a snack and walked from there to Torres del Rio with an American businessman who has studied with the Oblate order of Catholic priests. The km drifted by as we discussed philosophy, changes that have ocurred over the years, etc. He was having a bit of a hard time too with the long climbs and the talking helped the km go by. We parted near Viana as he was going on to Logroño. I am stopping in Viana as it is i) 19 km from Los Arcos and ii) Logroñno is only 10 km tomorrow. A short day is my gift to myself for getting this far.

I have seen people flying by as if they were possessed, Japanese peregrinos wearing white gloves and face masks, a Brazilian girl whose feet were simply hamburger and whose socks just wicked blood away and anothe Brazilian girl whose left knee has given out (boy, can I identify with that!). She is young, strong and full of drive and seems profoundly let down by her body. I shared some dried fruit with her so she had some sugar to keep her going but she refused any other help. I hope she manages OK.

Viana is a pretty town and the old town or Casco Viejo is full of beautiful buildings. The church, Inglesia de Santa Maria has a fabulous Renaissance facade. But for me, what was most special was the simple tomb of Cesar Borgia in front of it. Borgia was no ´nice guy´. His father was Pope Alexanber VI and he cut a wide swath through Spanish and Italian history in the early 1500´s.

Found the albergue and then went and sat in the simple plaza for a while. Went back to the albergue and slept for a couple of hours. Going out for dinner, I was surprised to meet my Irish friend, Bernadette and 2 other Irish women. How nice it is to see a friendly face in a strange place and be greeted with an enthusiastic wave. We went to the Inglesia for an evening pilgrim´s mass. It was quite beautiful and afterwards, the priest called all pilgrims up to the front to introduce us to his parishioners and to talk with us. After a blessing, which was quite moving, he invited us into the Sacristy or private area behind the añtar. It was a stunning collection of small rooms covered with gorgeous art and containing many artifacts.. When I thanked him, he said he was simply carrying out his responsibilities as did all priests everywhere. and that he was merely the custodian of this great art.

We went for dinner and had a great time. Two of the women are nurses and boy, do their problems with their health system mirror ours.

Made me appreciate all the more the work done by the Order of Saint John and by the Craft Lodges (Alex and Dale, you guys do a fabulous job and don´t hear ´thanks´very often. So ..... - ´´Thanks´´.)

Back to the albergue and into bed by 10:00 pm Slept like a rock.

Ultreya