WHAT A DAY !
It wasn't a great night's sleep but it was ok. Gone when it was light. And it turned out to be a terrific day. It was a perfectly clear sky, temperature about 19-20 C and a gentle whisper of a breeze. The air had that clear quality that comes after much rain. The Camino followed beautiful paths through lovely deep eucalyptus woods. There was one long, exhausting climb up a wooded ridge. A grazing horse watched me and I had to wonder what was going through its head as I plodded up the winding trail. But, in no time it seemed, I had covered my 13 km goal - in 2 hours no less! Decided 'What the hell, lets go for it.' I will walk on to Santiago de Compostela.
It was a long walk. Seemed forever from Lavacolla (this Latin name comes from the middle ages and means 'wash your genitals') to Monte de Gozo or Mount of Joy. Monte de Gozo was no mount of joy for me. The walk into Santiago de Compostela was long and grinding. My feet and knee began to act up but I was way past the point of no return. I slowed to my usual shambling pace and, by 3:00 PM, glory be to God, I stood in the Plaza d' Obradoiro in front of the great Cathedral of Saint James.
Frankly, I couldn't believe it. (Still can't.) I sat on the concrete bench in front of the Parador (Hostal de Los Reyes Catholicos, where I sat 2 years earlier with my mother) and stared at the Cathedral, simply exhausted. When I was approaching the square, I had met Mathias ( a Swiss pilgrim I had met earlier) and he commented that I looked like I was on my last legs - and I was. I was amazed I was here.
I called my Mother, Danielle, Michael and Fred. Mom sounded wonderful. I sent several text messages off and almost immediately received two very nice replies from Dale and Alex. After resting for a while, I shouldered my ruck and made my way to my room - the pension is right on the square, directly across from the Parador!
I left my ruck and headed off to get my Compostela - the proof that I had walked the Camino. It was kind of anti-climatic but nice none-the-less. I then headed over to the Cathedral to complete my Camino. (There are several traditions that pilgrims have maintained for over 1000 years.) The entrance is the magnificent Portico de Gloria. The middle column of the Portico depicts the Tree of Jesse. For centuries, pilgrims have placed their hand on the Tree of Jesse to give thanks for a safe arrival. Today, your hand slips easily into the five deeply-worn finger grooves of this marble pillar as you too bow your head and say thanks.
Then, stepping behind the pillar, you will see the bust of the master mason who designed and built the Portico - Master Mateo. Pilgrims believed that if they tapped their forehead to his three times, some of his brilliance and intelligence would transfer to them. Your forehead today fits smoothly into the worn depression of Master Mateo's forehead.
Finally, you walk up to the front of the cathedral to the main altar. This altar is magnificent and to the right and behind it is a small, very narrow staircase that leads up to behind the statue of Santiago Peregrino (St. James, the Pilgrim). From behind, you embrace the statue around the neck - and your pilgrimage is complete.
Then, I just sat in the church. Such a flood of thoughts and emotions. After a while, I went to my room and got cleaned up. Went out and wandered around the square a bit. Earlier, I had met
Eva, a German pilgrim and she took my picture in front of the Cathedral. In a little bar near the Plaza, I met an American woman I had seen often. Others walking by called out 'holla' while I was talking to Michael. There is a real sense of community in a loose way.I went back into the Plaza and, as I was standing on the marker stone indicationg the centre of the Plaza, in front of the Cathedral, my phone rang. It was Austin. That was perfect! After all, Austin was the first person I had spoken to about doing the Camino so many months before. We had a great chat. Afterwards, I went for dinner. Mathias passed by and, after remarking that I looked infinitely better after some rest, said there was a party at a nearby bar and that a number of people we had seen along the way would be there. Told him I would join them after dinner.
It was a great evening!!! I bar-crawled with a Swiss woman and another couple. We were joined by an English girl - a 'groupie' as the Swiss woman called her - who wanted to be with 'real' pilgrims, not the fakes that she said were the other poeple who came to see the Cathedral. What a laugh. She lasted about and hour and a half.
All-in-all, a pretty amazing day. The thoughts, emotions, feelings are kind of a large stew right now. I'm sure they will sort themselves out in time.
Ultreya
