22 Sept 2006 Zubiri to Pamplona

Dear Aymery

All 4 of us (Vince Leahy, Pierre Arnold, Dave Williamson and I) set out together. Stopped in Larrasoaña for breakfast and then walked on. There is no sense that this is a stroll or amble down shady paths. Dear reader, disabuse yourself of that notion! For me, this is a trudge. We sweat, struggle, watch our footing, pause for breath and simply will ourselves on.The Camino is a sea of mud. A town that supposedly had a restaurant/bar (and therefore, water) didn´t. Bit disappointing.

At the bridge at Zabaldica, we paused to watch some fishermen and cheered when one of them caught a very nice looking fish. After a stiff climb,the Road follows the Rio Arga on a high trail We will follow this rio all the way to Pamplona. Arrived at the edge of Pamplonaq about 3:00 pm. Trudged several kilometers through the city. My right knee is killing me! As we approached the centre of the city, we passed imposing walls, crossed a drawbridge and passed through an old gate into the old town. As tired and sore as I am, I LOVE the vibrancy of the ´barrio antigo´or óld town´of this or any other Spanish city. The narrow streets, cafes and crowds are a delight to the senses.

After some false starts we found our Albergue, run by a nice older couple and their son. While unlimbering our kit, we heard music. I was busy cleaning the mud off my boots beside the open window when a parade of giant paper mache figures passed by. Apparently, Pamplona celebrates the feast of San Fermin twice - once when they have the famous running of the bulls and a second time in the autumn. Well, we were out the door like a shot and down to the square where we had dinner, drinks and all the people-watching you could ask for - all in a very festive atmosphere.

Finished up in a Galego bar sampling orujo. Went to bed tired and sore but pretty satisfied.

Ultreya