20 September 2006

Dear Aymory

Began my assent of the Pass of Cizes at 8:ooam. Its all uphill as you can imagine and, frankly, it´s a heartbreaker. As far as you can see, on bare hills, lies the Road. And on it, small groups and solitary walkers bent both against a shrieking wind and their heavy load. So many times, I thought ´there is no way I can go another step´. Exhausting simply doesn´t come close to describing the feeling. Yet, the scenery is awesome! Rolling mountains, Golden eagles (dozens) soared all around - sometimes as near as 10 - 15 feet overhead. Goshawks, harriers, a type of eagle with striking black and white wings, falcons, kites and kestrels were everywhere. Pity the poor rabbits on the ground. After 6 grueling kilometers, I reached the Virgen d´Órisson - the statue of the Virgin Mary overlooking the stunning views of the Pyrenees. And, Marjan, I remembered.

Eventually I reached the point where the Camino leaves the roadway and becomes a grassy track, upward of course. Along a wooded stretch, I eventually reached the Fountain of Roland, the great friend of Charlemagne and hero of his battles. Filled my canteen and had my lunch of bread, cheese and chorizo. Shared it with the Swedish woman I met who didn´t think to bring any food with her on the climb. We would walk the rest of the day together.

Crossed the cattle grate that marked the border between France and Spain - felt good to be back in Spain again. Spain´s greeting was a long, difficult slog up seemingly endless ascents. I say honestly that it was a grind. At times, I was reduced to 10 paces, rest, 10 paces, rest, etc. The wind shreiked and, naturally, it was in my face. At this rate, I thought, I will do the Camino by nibbling it to death.

Finally, at a point where I was totally beat, I reached Col de Lepoder - the summit. I had climbed 1,450 meters. I looked forward to the downhillroute til I saw it - steep, twisty, rubble-strewn. Down like this is just as hard as up! But part of the route lay through sun-dappled beech woods. The views were stunning and the beauty palpable.

Roncesvalles finally. The monastery dates from about the year 1200 and was constructed to celebrate the victory of Sancho el Fuerte (the Strong) over a Moorish army. He and his wife are buried here and at the foot of his tomb are the chains of Christian prisoners freed from their Moorish captors. Those chains figure today in Spain´s national flag and the flag of Navarra. There are also caskets of bones of pilgrims who died coming over the pass. I understand why!!

Went to the refugio and got my bunk. Met the same people who helped me at Orisson. Had a glass of wine with them. Had dinner a bit later with some other pilgrims. Went to the pilgrim mass celebrated by monks of the monastery. It was a beautiful mass. Hobbled back to the refugio and went to bed.

Ultreya