Dear Aymery
Its been a week since I´ve been able to update this. Been in villages where there was no internet, no computers, etc. etc. Decided that what I´m going to do is simply update this with impressions, experiences and observations that span several days walking.
I really like Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The church is very beautiful and the town is quite nice. Spent some time with the people I have met over tha past couple of days. Interesting how it lifts the spirit to see a familiar face or hear your name called out over the noise of a plaza.
As you leave Sto. Domingo, the terrain becomes more rolling as you approach the meseta or central plains. And the sky gets increasingly ´bigger´. Watched farmers harvesting potatoes and saw a sign that said ´brujas´ which means ´witches´. This is a celtic concept and I was surprised to see it outside of Galicia.
In Tostanos, I saw a church that was built right into a large cave. Its cold, windy and rainy today, by the way - about 12 degrees (I miss my fleece). Even the sunflower fields look cold and dismal.
Montes de Oca seems so foreboding. It was a dangerous place in the middle ages, full of thieves and robbers (probably wearing fleeces!!). A cool, damp and cloudy day makes it easy to imagine the fears of pilgrims as they made their way through dense thickets and along forest tracks. Easy to see how this could be a thieves paradise.
Blew the budget on phone calls. Called my mother, my children and some friends. This experience certainly gives one the option of studying their life and sorting what's important from what isn´t. Food, a bed and friends seem to top the list.
Burgos is a beautiful city. Stayed in a favourite hotel (Meson del Cid) instead of the albergue. Enjoyed a long hot bath - I know some may think that hardly warrants a comment but after a few days of short cold showers, trust me its a simple pleasure of life not to skipped when offered. The Cathedral is, like so many, magnificent. So much is dedicated to El Cid, Rodrigo Diaz de Vivar, the great Spanish warrior of the 11th century.
It was a good walk out of Burgos but it turned into a longer day than planned. I noticed as I passed through villages that the albergues were closed. Bedbugs it turns out! In Najera, I had seen a girl completely covered in bites from head to toe - last seen being taken to the hospital. Thankfully, the weather has been gorgeous today. Crossed two rivers (Arlanzon and Urbel) - both were delightful places with bubbling water, lots of birds in surrounding trees, ducks in marshy areas - refreshing for the senses. I walked along wooded paths and open fields and can see the meseta beginning.
I believe an enduring image of Castille y Leon will be flies. Flies everywhere: walking, sitting, in restaurants and bars - EVERYWHERE.
The pleasant silence of the albergue in Hontanas was shattered by three cyclists who came in and never stopped yelling and shouting - didn´t give a damn about anyone else. Eventually told by a hospitalero to quieten down or leave. Grumbled for the rest of the night.
Found an internet connection with a USB port. Waited in line for an hour and then it wouldn´t work. I am not sure where I am going to be able to upload these photos. Most internet cafes have the computer completely enclosed in a sealed box. Often the staff know nothing about computers or the internet.
Left Hontanas in the gloom of dawn - its a nice time to walk. Walked along quiet farm tracks and paths. At the ruins of the ancient Convento de San Anton, I paused to reflect on their work. They set up an Order to deal with people who had a leprosy-like disease which was rampant in Europe in the middle ages. The arch of the Convent spans the Camino. In the middle ages, gates were locked at sundown The monks left food in nitches in the wall for late comers. Nowadays, pilgrims can and do leave notes in them, held in place by pebbles. Left mine as well.
Got lost in Castrojeriz - not a place to get lost in because every street goes in only one direction - UP. There are two albegues in Castrojeriz - one (apparently the nicer of the 2) was open and had a few beds left. The other albegue was closed and was reportedly filthy. Nice to know, especially with the recurrent bedbug problems.
Had a light meal in the local bar. The owner is very droll :). Met an English girl named Hannah. She has walked all the way from England - wow. She asked about my OSJ ring. I explained and she commented that she thought we were all dead! Met a Canadian woman (Anna) who said she recognized me from a meeting in London, Ont. that I had attended several months ago - small (no, make that very small) world. In the bar, the owner was joking with several friends while his wife worked in the kitchen. At one point her brought in a large bunch of perfectly ripe grapes. Proudly, he stated that they were from the garden out back. At that moment, his wife passed by with a pleasant smile on her face. As she did, the owner's friend said that she was the rose in her garden. She blushed but the quick look that passed between them spoke volumes. Who said such gallantry can be found only in the salons of Madrid!!! :)
Went back to the albergue and laid down - my knee is very sore. Slept for a couple of hours and woke up to the sound of rain. Decided to go out for dinner (its about 10:00 PM). Went back to the same bar and had a terrific meal. The local wine is to die for. As the time passed, the bar steadily filled with local people and soon echoed to not just Spanish but also English, French, German, etc. In the background 'Don't Cry For Me, Argentina' softly played. In this ancient, stone-walled room with its heavily beamed ceiling, time stood still.
Spoke with my business partner for a bit - she has everything in hand (no surprise there) Even in business, I am fortunate. Sherry is an excellent teacher and partner and I am able to walk my days free of concerns about our business.
On another evening while having dinner, I thought about how my knee hurt. Got to thinking about pain. Maybe, the small (and I do mean small) gift of pain is to focus our attention. It narrows your perspective to ´here and now´ and slows you down. It´s also a message from our body to ¨Hey! Pay attention - now.¨
Lost the chip in my palmpilot - and about two dozen pictures that were on it. Also on it were some data files - soooooooo no checking on business even if I wanted to.
One morning, I was woken up by 2 women in a bickering match over turning on the light early. The winner (meaning the snarliest) was, to my chagrin, plastered with Canadian flags. Made me cringe. Made a breakfast of bread, cheese and Type 1 coffee [Alex, Rick, Steve and Jim - NEVER underestimate how good that stuff can taste on a cold, damp morning far from home :) ]
Walked to Fromista, the middle of what once was called the ´breadbasket of the Roman Empire´. That day, I had met a couple from Montreal, Canada. He was a retired psychologist and she was speech therapist. They were lovely people and the conversation was interesting and varied as we walked. Walking through Boadilla del Camino, I passed a cross with a scallop shell with the symbol of St. James. In the 15th century, local criminals used to be executed beside it - nice irony, isn't it.
Fromista is a quiet little town with a very very old church. Stayed in a small pension where I could turn the light on when I wanted. Went out and bought some cheese, chorizo, yogurt ,mussels, bread and local wine and had a terrific feast in my room. Afterwards, had a nap. Went exploring, especially the old church. Returning, I had dinner at the pension. It was a very small dining room and it was full of German tourists who came by bus. After a good meal, I chatted a bit with the landlady and went to bed.
The next morning, I stopped in a bar/cafe for some coffee and a bit to eat. Met a French-Canadian pilgrim named Jacques who was on his way out. We chatted for a bit and then he was on his way.
Leaving Fromista, the 'meseta' really begins. Walking across the it is quite an experience. The
meseta is flat. Think Saskatchewan. Think pancake or board. The horizon just never moves. You can walk all day and feel as if you´ve made no progress. I can understand why some people chose to skip this portion and in the summer it must be murder under the hot sun. The long walk into Leon along the highway is no better. But, the goal is Leon with its stunning cathedral and spectacular monastery, now one of Spain's great Paradors or hotels.
Leon is an ancient city founded by the Romans in the 1st century as a major military base. It was the permanent home of the 7th Legion, the Legio VII Gemina, from where it gets its name.The 7th Legion guarded the gold route from Galicia to Bordeaux. Found a room overlooking the Plaza Mayor - my favourite place in a Spanish city. The Cathedral is simply stunning. Incredible stained glass windows, soaring columns, an awesome example of Gothic architecture. Went to the Benedictine Monastery for a ´sello´or stamp for my ´credential´. A lovely older woman brought me across the city and we chatted all the way. Had an equally pleasant chat with a Benedictine nun.Walked along a street that was the Roman wall in the 3rd century. Wandered the streets around the square in the evening - the streets are thronged! Visited the Cathedral. It is simply breathtaking. Had a great dinner. It was a nice pleasant evening with heat lightening in the sky (tomorrow may be interesting). Went back to my room. Opened the balcony doors overlooking the square. It was a great feeling to snuggle down under heavy blankets and fall asleep overlooking a darkened Spanish square.
Its a long, flat walk to Hospital de Orbigo. The Camino goes through industrial sections of the city and generally follows the highway. Hardly a quiet, contemplative walk!
Hospital de Orbigo is famous for a major battle in 452 between the Suevi (a tribe of Celts) and the invading Visigoths who replaced the Romans after the fall of the Roman Empire (I´m sure you know all about it) and another one in late 800's between Alfonso III and the Moors. It is best known for probably the last real jousting match in medieval Europe. It took place in 1434 on a great Roman bridge and I was standing there taking pictures when I heard my name being called out. I turned and I saw a woman waving at me. It was Carina Jakobi, the woman I met crossing the Pyrenees. It was great to see her and compare notes.
We had a great reunion on the bridge and went off to have a meal. During the meal, she made an interesting comment. She said that we are on the Camino to meet ourselves and to have a conversation with ourselves. To listen to ourselves. That is an obsevation worth spending time to ponder!
Leaving the restaurant, I saw the church with a Maltese cross carved in the lintel. The priest there said the albergue was just down the street and that it used to be the chapter house of the Order of St. John. I could hardly wait to get there!
The albergue has a large Maltese cross on the floor. The hospitality was warm. Inside I met Jacques, who I had last seen in Fromista. I also met another Canadian - Joe Poncelet. Joe is from Toronto as well. Also met a German priest - a Fr. Winfrid, who also joined us. Together, we had an enjoyable dinner together.
I know this is Thanksgiving Day and I wish everyone the very very best. We have so much to be thankful for and its good to pause and reflect on that.
Ultreya
While sitting in the airport, I heard my name being called out. With amazement and delight, I was greeted by Bev and her daughter Madeleine with whom I had walked. We had wanted to get together in Santiago de Compostela but it was not to be. Turns out, they were staying a block from me and as we looked for each other, we must have crossed paths a dozen times.
