Michael's Camino

1 November 2006

2007-03-06T16:42:00.001-05:00

Dear Aymory

Up early. Took a cab to the airport and will soon be on my way. Did all of this (or any of this) really happen?

While sitting in the airport, I heard my name being called out. With amazement and delight, I was greeted by Bev and her daughter Madeleine with whom I had walked. We had wanted to get together in Santiago de Compostela but it was not to be. Turns out, they were staying a block from me and as we looked for each other, we must have crossed paths a dozen times.

We spent a delightful hour in the airport, garnering some interesting looks from other travelers.

Soon, it was time to part. Words alone cannot begin to express the impact that walking the Camino de Santiago has had for me. I suspect that I will be a long time reflecting on this experience and on how I will integrate it into my life. It was an amazing experience that I am very grateful for. The challenge now, when I walk out of Plaza d'Obradoiro, is to continue to walk my Camino in the yet-to-be-discovered country of the rest of my life.

Ultreya

31 October 2006

2007-03-06T16:33:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymory

What can I say? Today we part company. Through all of this, you have been my faithful companion - a metaphor in your own way.

I have decided to leave you at our destination - in a small quiet corner of the great Cathedral. And when I leave, I won't look back. We have each served the other well and have some cracks and scratches to show for it. I will keep your lace so you won't be out of my mind.

10:45 AM - left my trusty staff, Aymory, in the care of St. James.

_________________________________________________________________

Spent the rest of the day shopping. Took my time. It was good to just wander and look for things for others. Brought stuff back to the hostal and moved rooms.

Went back out into the square. Today is my last day here and I just want to soak up as much as possible. Had dinner mid-evening, returned to my room and packed my kit.

It will be nice to see Danielle and John tomorrow.

Ultreya

30 October 2006

2007-03-06T16:27:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymory

Spent the morning and afternoon shopping. I enjoy the process of finding gifts for people - trying to find something that would suit the person. Also bought a cheap bag for my trip to England. I suspect i will need it considering that I have picked up things here plus have a change of clothes awaiting me at my daughter's home. Got some very nice things (I think) plus a lot of exercise walking the narrow streets of the old town. Ate a whole lot of chestnuts!

Found a terrific tapas bar with probably the best selection that I have seen outside of Madrid. Had lunch there. Came back and had dinner there too. Probablty will tomorrow too :)

Took my loot back to my room. Have to move rooms tomorrow. Probably a good thing as I will need the extra space to spread out my kit to pack.

New pilgrims arriving every day.

Time to move on.

Ultreya

29 October 2006

2007-03-06T14:59:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymory

What a beautiful morning. Apparently there is some sort of foot race on today that is ending in Plaza d'Obradoiros. This certainly makes for an interesting mix of people here.

Went to mass and the Cathedral is packed! A lot of tourist groups in the church. I don't know why, but I am continually amazed at the bad behaviour of people - groups standing right in front of the altar talking over the priest who is saying mass, photographing despite requests not to, eating sloppy meals and making a mess. At any rate, it was a beautiful mass. I managed to sit at the front. At the end of mass, they swung the botifumeiro, the massive incense burner that is only swung on special occassions. It takes 8 men on long ropes to get it moving and when it finally is up to speed, it swings from one side of the transept to the other, streaming clouds of buring incense. It's original purpose in the middle ages was to mask the overpowering smell of the pack, unwashed bodies of the pilgrims gathered in the church (oh, remember Lavacolla - unwashed, except for their genitals!) It was an impressive sight!

Hung out in the square for a while. It serves as a meeting place for pilgrims. Later, I met up with Peter and Farrah and we went off for lunch. Lunch lasted some 4 hours and was a lot of fun. We found a sidewalk cafe where there was room for Aneka, their daughter, to wander a bit safely and enjoyed good food, wine and conversation. The American pilgrims, David and Christina, came by and joined us for some wine.

All too soon, it was over. Peter and Farrah leave at 5:00 AM for Australia; David and Chrsitina at 8:00 AM. Dave Williams called from Toronto and we had a nice chat.

Later, I went to the square where I just sat and watched the people passing by and the light slowly changing. The Cathedral looks impressive against the clear blue sky and equally so against a starry sky.

Home by midnight and slept well.

Ultreya

28 October 2007

2007-03-06T11:18:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymory

Slept in!!!!!

A nice feeling, althought it was a late night :) .

Went to the pilgrims' mass at noon and heard 'Canada' called out. It was quite satifying to hear. (During mass, it is the practice to read out the home countries of each pilgrim who received a 'compostela' the day before.) Its hard to believe its over. It had to be at some point but it seems as if I have always been walking and at the same time, that I never was.

Met Peter and Farah Elliott after mass. We chatted a bit and decided to meet at 2:00 for lunch. Until then, I wandered the old town. We met up in the square, found a nice restaurant and enjoyed a good meal and great conversation. In no time at all, it was 6:00 pm.

Returned to my room and had a nap. Went out and wandered the old town in the evening - ate chestnuts and people-watched in the squares. (I just love the ambience of the small squares.) Met an American couple (David and Christine) who finished the Camino several days ago. He has spent his career with the Ameican foreign service and we had a very interesting conversation.

Returned to my room about midnight. Slept well.

Ultreya

27 October 2007

2007-03-03T04:11:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymory

WHAT A DAY !

It wasn't a great night's sleep but it was ok. Gone when it was light. And it turned out to be a terrific day. It was a perfectly clear sky, temperature about 19-20 C and a gentle whisper of a breeze. The air had that clear quality that comes after much rain. The Camino followed beautiful paths through lovely deep eucalyptus woods. There was one long, exhausting climb up a wooded ridge. A grazing horse watched me and I had to wonder what was going through its head as I plodded up the winding trail. But, in no time it seemed, I had covered my 13 km goal - in 2 hours no less! Decided 'What the hell, lets go for it.' I will walk on to Santiago de Compostela.

It was a long walk. Seemed forever from Lavacolla (this Latin name comes from the middle ages and means 'wash your genitals') to Monte de Gozo or Mount of Joy. Monte de Gozo was no mount of joy for me. The walk into Santiago de Compostela was long and grinding. My feet and knee began to act up but I was way past the point of no return. I slowed to my usual shambling pace and, by 3:00 PM, glory be to God, I stood in the Plaza d' Obradoiro in front of the great Cathedral of Saint James.
Frankly, I couldn't believe it. (Still can't.) I sat on the concrete bench in front of the Parador (Hostal de Los Reyes Catholicos, where I sat 2 years earlier with my mother) and stared at the Cathedral, simply exhausted. When I was approaching the square, I had met Mathias ( a Swiss pilgrim I had met earlier) and he commented that I looked like I was on my last legs - and I was. I was amazed I was here.

I called my Mother, Danielle, Michael and Fred. Mom sounded wonderful. I sent several text messages off and almost immediately received two very nice replies from Dale and Alex. After resting for a while, I shouldered my ruck and made my way to my room - the pension is right on the square, directly across from the Parador!

I left my ruck and headed off to get my Compostela - the proof that I had walked the Camino. It was kind of anti-climatic but nice none-the-less. I then headed over to the Cathedral to complete my Camino. (There are several traditions that pilgrims have maintained for over 1000 years.) The entrance is the magnificent Portico de Gloria. The middle column of the Portico depicts the Tree of Jesse. For centuries, pilgrims have placed their hand on the Tree of Jesse to give thanks for a safe arrival. Today, your hand slips easily into the five deeply-worn finger grooves of this marble pillar as you too bow your head and say thanks.

Then, stepping behind the pillar, you will see the bust of the master mason who designed and built the Portico - Master Mateo. Pilgrims believed that if they tapped their forehead to his three times, some of his brilliance and intelligence would transfer to them. Your forehead today fits smoothly into the worn depression of Master Mateo's forehead.

Finally, you walk up to the front of the cathedral to the main altar. This altar is magnificent and to the right and behind it is a small, very narrow staircase that leads up to behind the statue of Santiago Peregrino (St. James, the Pilgrim). From behind, you embrace the statue around the neck - and your pilgrimage is complete.

Then, I just sat in the church. Such a flood of thoughts and emotions. After a while, I went to my room and got cleaned up. Went out and wandered around the square a bit. Earlier, I had met Eva, a German pilgrim and she took my picture in front of the Cathedral. In a little bar near the Plaza, I met an American woman I had seen often. Others walking by called out 'holla' while I was talking to Michael. There is a real sense of community in a loose way.

I went back into the Plaza and, as I was standing on the marker stone indicationg the centre of the Plaza, in front of the Cathedral, my phone rang. It was Austin. That was perfect! After all, Austin was the first person I had spoken to about doing the Camino so many months before. We had a great chat. Afterwards, I went for dinner. Mathias passed by and, after remarking that I looked infinitely better after some rest, said there was a party at a nearby bar and that a number of people we had seen along the way would be there. Told him I would join them after dinner.

It was a great evening!!! I bar-crawled with a Swiss woman and another couple. We were joined by an English girl - a 'groupie' as the Swiss woman called her - who wanted to be with 'real' pilgrims, not the fakes that she said were the other poeple who came to see the Cathedral. What a laugh. She lasted about and hour and a half.

All-in-all, a pretty amazing day. The thoughts, emotions, feelings are kind of a large stew right now. I'm sure they will sort themselves out in time.

Ultreya

26 October 2006

2007-03-03T03:36:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymory

A great day's walk. Got up and prepared, had a good breakfast and left about 9:00 AM. Clear sky and NO RAIN !!! Sun will be up soon.

Weather was just great all day. The terrain was pretty good - a few steep climbs but mostly a relatively level walk through tiny villages. Made good time. Stopped in Salceda for a delicious cold beer knowing I was only about 2 km from my destination - Brea. Chatted with a couple from Barcelona. (Apparently, my Spanish is holding up.) Easy walk on to Brea and found the hostal without difficulty.

Had a rest and then dinner - a terrific Gallego meal of cauldo, cocido gallego and excellent local wine. Is there more? :)

Hard to believe but tommorrow will be my last complete day and night on the Camino. Pierre Arnold called me. He knows exactly where I am. He will tell Dave and Vince that all is well.

I sit here in this inside patio and realize that tonight is probably the last night I will experience rural Spainish hospitality and circumstances. Sure, I'll be a tourist for a few days in Santiago de Compostela but it is ending. A lot of mixed feelings.

Physically, this has been the most gruelling thing I have ever done. Period. I look back and just can't believe what I have done! I don't say this out of boasting. If I had known how hard it was going to be, I may not have done it. My feet look terrible. God knows what I've done to my knee and I know I have hurt my shoulder. To top it off, I lost a filling yesterday. People think I'm doing something great - if they only knew! I'm just a shambling wreck who doesn't know how to quit.

The man who owns this hostal is out in the back of the patio piling firewood. His wife and daughter-in-law are in the kitchen chatting while his grandson is running around out here. A French pilgrim has come in and gon to bed in the albergue. She is complaining (loudly) about the cost - 12 euros vs 1 euro yesterday. I commented that she could go on if she wanted to or go back to where she was last night :) She said she felt people took advantage of pilgrims and I replied that maybe pilgrims take advantage of local people. This is a family compound. We come, or not and we accept the terms, or not and are happy with the results.

I will miss this ambience when I go home. I have come to take it for granted - the noise, the kids, the friends and family - the easy community of a family; the breadman and fishman and the cheeseman with their busy small vans darting through the countryside. I will miss them.

And yet, I love my Canada. I love my life there with my family, my friends and my work. I guess the challenge will be to integrate all of this. Boy, is that ever a challenge!

There are visual and cultural 'things' that cannot be transposed and yet so much of this wonderful history is soaked in violence and blood. Let no-one underestimate the value of Canada. We may not have the 'glories' of the historical past but these were paid for with the blood and bone of untold millions.

We have an awesome country. I only wish we had leaders worthy of leading it.

Ultreya

25 october 2006

2007-01-31T18:27:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymory

Left in a downpour. Getting a bit tired of this! It's hard to get completely dry or completely warm - either warm and damp or cold and damp. Oh well .......

It was a very nice walk, especially for the first 7-8 kilometres. The rain even let up at times. I walked down empty pathways, crossed rushing rivers on stone fords and walked through tiny villages.

After some 8 or 9 kilometres, the terrain became more rugged as the land was cut with numerous small rivers. There were some hard climbs up ridges and then precipitously down the other side to cross a flooding river and then, do it again ... and again .... and again.

Reached my goal of Castaneda b ut it is such a tiny village with only the albergue and a few buildings. No restaurant or bar or store. Decided to continue on another 6 or 7 kilometres to Arzua.

It was 'character-building'. In places, the Camino was completely washed out. In one place, I had to cross a soggy corn field over my boot tops in water and muck. I was beat by the time I got to Ribadiso. The ridge I had climbed over just didn't seem to stop. And, you guessed it, the skies opened up again. I eventually reached Arzua and made my way down the long long entrance to the town. Stopped for my daily 'end of walk' reward - the largest cold beer they pour. It tasted good, too!

Slogged to the pension - heat only after 8:00 PM. Got out of my wet clothes and spread the rest of my kit out to try and dry it. I was quite beat and crwaled into bed for a well-deserved nap. Afterwards, I had a long hot shower and felt a lot more human - rested, dry and warm.

Went out to explore Arzua a bit and find some of their local cheese. Arzua is famous across Spain for its cheeses. And the cheese is delicious! Sat in a local bar and looked at my route for the next few days. Looks like I'm going to arrive in Santiago de Compostela a day earlier than planned. Maybe I can do it without the damn 'clickety clack' people! Walkers, especially European walkers, use these ski poles as walking sticks and all you can hear as they approach is 'click clack, click clack' as they stab the road and hard stone paths. According to some I have talked to, there is this belief that this somehow propels you on your way???!!! Sort of like 'dry skiing' to Santiago de Compostela. Boy, talk about a marketing coup for the ski pole manufacturers. A billion years of evolution reversed - going from all 4's to erect on 2 legs and now back to all 4's again!

I wonder how my life will change as a result of this experience. I'm pretty sure it will. It will be interesting to see. Simpler, maybe. Perhaps more balanced.

Had a lovely dinner with the Australian couple I met (Peter and Farah). Blew the bank on dinner with some huge steaks. Feel the need for some protein - lol. The meal was excellent and the conversation was great. Returned to my room and it was frigid. No heat at all and the manager couldn't care less. Lousy night's sleep - cold and damp.

Ultreya

24 October 2006

2007-01-31T17:50:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymory

Up early. Had breakfast in my room and left as soon as I could (8:40). It rained (what else) - hard, soft, drizzle, sometimes it even stopped for a bit. Despite the rain, It was a good walk and, without trying, I set a fast pace. Covered 11 kilometres in 2 hours. Decided to carry on rather than stay here as I had tentatively planned. Reached Melida by 12:30. A great pace but feeling tired. And I was also drenched. Then, to cap off a good day's walk, I got lost. Ended up walking an additional 3 kilometres.

There is a pulperia in Melide which has become very well-known. (A pulperia is a restaurant that serves one of Galicia's famous dishes, octopus or 'pulpo'. It is cooked in large hammered copper pots over an open fire, sliced, sprinkled with paprika and olive oil and served on wooden platters to be eaten with small wooded skewers.) Puleria Ezekial was my destination and I was not disappointed. The restaurant is completely open at the front - you just walk in off the treet. Walking in from the pouring rain, the warmth from the big fire in the hearth was delicious. I took a seat along a bench table ( everyone eats at these long bench tables) and placed my order. As I waited I watched people coming in and picking up orders that had obviously called in earlier. A waitress came with a clay jug of Ribeira wine and a small round ceramic dish to drink from. Ribeira wine turns cloudy when exposed to the air and tastes absolutely delicious. Along with baskets of chunks of warm bread fresh from the oven, it was a feast for a weary walker.

I booked a room in a local pension as I waited for dinner. During lunch, the 2 Australian guys came in and we chatted a bit. After lunch, I found my way to the pension. The room was OK but it was cold - no heat! I was told the heat is only turned on in January! That was the end of that room. Went to a small hotel, booked a room, argued for a space heater (and got it). Completely warm for the first time today. Dried my clothes, had a hot shower and took a nap.

My Spanish teacher called me and we chatted a bit. Although I'm sure my Spanish makes her flinch, I am grateful for her help. I can effectively communicate, which was my original goal.

Went out for dinner later in the evening. It was very mild and, surprise surprise, not raining!

After dinner, I had a nice chat with the woman who runs the hotel. Went to bed.

During the night, there was continual thunder and lightening and monsoon rains. Tomorrow should be fun.

Ultreya

23 October 2006

2007-01-18T11:59:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymory

Well, it was a less than stellar night's sleep! My shoulder ached and it was so damp because of all of the rain, I just couldn't seem to get warm. It was pitch dark til 8:45 AM. Left at 9:15 - in the rain (what else).

Hadn't walked very far when I met Madeleine from Australia walking back. They had left in the dark to get a head start but apprently, Madeleine left her wallet/purse back at the albergue.

Nothing like having to retrace your footsteps in the pouring rain to 'dampen' your spirits. Her Mom is in a bar up the road a few kilometers. I continued walking til I came to the bar is Lestedo. Decided to stop and have a coffee -who knows, maybe even warm up. Joined Bev and chatted with her til Madeleine returned, empty-handed. Decided to move on.

Overall, despite the rain, it is a nice walk. Rolling countryside, ancient 'castros' or celtic hill forts, cruceiros or road side crosses dating back 1/2 a millenia. A kilometer out of Hospital de la Cruz, I passed the site of a bloody battle fought in 820 between Christians and Moors. The castros pre-date the Romans.

I was tired by the time I reached Palas de Rei, a town that is over 1000 years old. I found a private pension across the street from the albergue. The 15 Euro difference in cost is worth it, I hope, for a warm room. On the way, I had met a family from Sweden - Mom, Dad and 3 girls about 7, 4 and 1. 'That's brave' is all I could think about. I saw them later at the albergue across the street. Had a nap, did some washing and made a lunch in my room - the usual of bread, cheese, chorizo and wine. Later, when it had stopped raining, I went for a walk. Went into a bar and met 5 other peregrinos - Swiss, german, Australian and a New Zealander. We chatted away in English for a while. The German fellow is averaging 40 kilometers a day! They told me of a guy who had just completed the Camino in 12 days - averaging something like 60 or 70 kilometers a day! Someone said they had seen his credential. Can't get my mind around that Seems like a marathon or sports event. Who knows. For me, I do know that I have needed the time to let things happen, to percolate as it were.

Called Mom who was pleased to hear from me. Also say down for the first time with the manual for my phone (always a good idea at some point). Figured out how to send text messages - and practised on some friends - lol. Went to bed (warm!!) and slept well.

Ultreya

22 October 2006

2007-01-17T09:55:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymory

Got up to ......... (wait for it) .... rain! What a surprise. Left in the gloom in a hard rain. In the early morning darkness and pouring rain, I got lost. Walked in circles and re-entered the square probable 3 times which really frustrated me. Tought of the movie "Groundhog Day". Eventually found my way out of town. Talked to a French pilgrim who stayed in the albergue. I guess it was a hell of a night there! Apparently 2 guys got into a fight and 1 tried to set the other guys sleeping bag on fire - with him in it. There was a flasher in the women's shower room. Later on, someone else lost it and began to hit people with his walking stick until a group of men set upon him with theirs! And all I did was sleep soundly in my little room - lol. No wonder there were 3 pilgims sleeping in the rain in the town square!

Walked over a rickety bridge and up through woods that, in the 1100's was a large, well-known open-air brothel. No trade today - lol.

Even though I walked in rain, it was a nice day. Reached Castromaior and considered staying at a local private pension but there was nothing else around - village square, restaurant or bar. So, decided to continue on to Hospital de la Cruz. Found a private pension there (Meson Labrador) which was just FANTASTIC. Crackling fire in the hearth, excellent food, cold beer, terrific wine and a clean room. Had a nap and went for dinner. Met the same 2 Australian women. Our table was a scream! The owner was fabulous and we had a great conversation - including his friend from Portugal. La Senoria brought me an herbal drink based on Orujo - the strong liquor of Galicia. It tasted great and I know it was only medicinal!

This is a perfect place to stop in rural Galicia - thick stone walls, warm fire, chestnuts by the ton, great food and conversation with the owners followed by a comfortable bed - can you ask for more? Think I will sleep well tonight.

Ultreya

21 October 2007

2007-01-15T20:06:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymory

At first light, I was on my way. It poured rain but, in spite of the rain, it was a nice walk through small villages and hamlets. I know it sounds odd to describe it as 'nice' but its just a matter of getting used to the rain and carrying on. There was absolutely nothing open but it was a lovely amble through the countryside. Rain, muck on the trail and fresh cow shit make an interesting gumbo to walk through! The bull tied in the middle of the pathway was an interesting obstacle too!

Eventually, I reached Portomarin. You enter the town on a long, high bridge over the Rio Mino. If you look down, you can see the ancient Roman bridge that has stood there for centuries. And, if you look carefully, you can make out the shadowy forms of houses and streets that were completely submerged in the 1950's when Franco decided to build a reservoir, completely submerging the town. The ancient fortress/church of St. John was saved and it stands as a massive monument to the Order of St. John of Jerusalen, the Knights of Malta.

It took a bit of doing, but I finally found a small pension. After I got settled in, I went in search of a supermercado (supermarket) to replenish my supplies. And, as they say, an interesting thing happened on the way. As I entered the store, I saw a young girl, maybe 20 or 21, trying to buy groceries. Her kit and her lack of Spanish marked her as a pilgrim. I offered to help. She spoke French and a little English. Turned out that she had no money and she was trying a 'cash-back' transaction. I should have twigged to that but I didn't - thought she was French. I talked with the owner but he said that such a transaction was impossible for him to do. I offered to buy some groceries for her but she said she didn't want anything if she couldn't get some cash. All along, a crowd was gathering and she was getting more and more agitated. Eventually, I tumbled to the fact that she was a Canadian too - from Quebec. Finally, she just burst into tears and hurried out into the rain. I followed her into the street and gave her some money so she could get a meal and a place to stay. As I returned to the store to shop, I noticed that the owner had been watching me. He turned and went out into the street and called her back. I watched from a ways back. I don't know what happened but she ended up with both food and 50 or 60 Euros. Before she left, she came over to me to say 'thank you'. She was crying, I am certain with relief. Tomorrow is Sunday and the banks won't open til Monday but she will have enough to tide her over til then, esp. if she calls home to arrange for a cash transfer from the DAD National Bank.

I thought about that later and reflected on what various roles we play, what being in the Order means, etc. Went to mass at the Church of St. John. This church really is build like a fortress. It was constructed around 1250 AD by the Order of St. John and is in the shape of a rectangle. High, bare walls are surmounted with battlements. The 'church' had all of the necessary facilities for a troop of mounted fighting men - armoury, refectory or dining hall, barracks and .... a simple but beautiful church in the building. Outside, above a beautiful carved doorway, is a magnificent rose window. Mass was quite moving.

Afterwards, went back to my room. Spoke with Alex Moseanu, not only my friend but also the Grand Prior of the Order of St. John in Canada. As we talked, he found an image of the church on the internet. It was interesteing to chat with him, what with me looking out my window at the church and him looking at the same image in his home in Toronto. Spoke as well with my friend Fred. He made an interesting observation. He said that, if I feel my ruck is heavier sometimes, its because I am carrying many other people with me on my pilgrimage. Hmmmmm. Thought about that for a while as I lay in bed waiting for sleep to come.

Ultreya

20 October 2006

2007-01-15T10:06:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymory

Another terrific day. It was a beautiful walk through rolling countryside. I left Sarria in the pouring rain (It just never seems to stop). After some 3 hours, it let up and eventually stopped. The day got brighter and eventually I even saw my shadow! I had thought I might get breakfast along the way, but there was nothing at all. In Morgagde, I finally found a small bar and had a very good lunch. My finish point for the day is Fereiros, about another 1 or 2 km further. The question was, should I push on to Portomarin? Decided not to. My goal is not to cover kilometers but to enjoy the experience. I feel good although a little tired. Got a bed in the albergue and had a nap. I was the only one there.

Later, I went to the only bar in town to update my journal and have dinner. Met an Australian woman (Bev) and her daughter (Madeleine). Bev is a clinical psychologist and has an abosolutely hilarious sense of humour. We laughed and drank and ate. It was a terrific meal. The evening was sunny and balmy. My sister Mary called which was very very nice.

Earlier today, I passed a stone marker which indicated 100 km from Santiago de Compostela. The reality of finishing this is beginning to settle in.

Returned to the Albergue and found it was totally full. Crawled into my bunk and tried to get to sleep. The woman in the bunk above me made every sound that a human body could possibly produce - including the most awesome, thunderous fart I have ever heard in my life (and believe me, there are some people [who shall remain nameless] in the Signals Corps who might have been able to rival her - you know who you are!!!!!!). I just covered my head and wondered if I'd hear body parts falling around me.

All-in-all, it wasn't a great night's sleep. There was a rather creepy looking guy who was wandering aound during the night - he was finally caught in the women's washroom - lol - and chased out. Got up around 6:00 AM, packed my ruck in the lounge and waited til first light.

A quick coffee and out the door.

Ultryea

19 October 2006

2007-01-15T09:26:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymory

Well ..... it didn't rain - it simply teemed rain. Not windy, not cold, simply tons of rain falling straight down. Quietly left the pension and walked out of Samos in the gloom and driving rain, heading to Sarria.

Walked country lanes, small roads and footpaths. It was haunting - and beautiful. Passed through a woods and stopped under an chestnet tree for a drink of water. To my amazement, there, on a branch quite close by, was a bird just singing its heart out - in the middle of the most intense rain I have ever experienced. I wish I could have taken pictures today but was just raining far too hard to risk my camera.

Finally walked into Sarria - soaked and tired. I found a small albergue and got settled. Changed into dry clothes and went down to the small bar. Walking in, I was greeted by a crackling fire. The owner invited me to sit by the fire at a table that has been in his family for 3 generations. This gorgeous table which could seat 8 around it is made from an enormous slice of the trunk of an oak tree. Thought to myself 'this works'. We chatted, drank local wine and feasted on roasted chestnuts. I met a French couple and we had a terrific dinner. This was a very good day all around - physically, travel-wise, etc. Probably one of my best days, in spite of the weather. Maybe the weather even helped, who knows.

Went to be bed and slept very well.

Ultreya

18 October 2006

2007-01-15T08:20:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymory

Up and gone at first light. At the end of the main street, there is a T intersection: left for Samos and right for Sarria. Both routes end up in Sarria but the road through Samos is a day longer. Decided to contiue directly to Sarria following the main Camino.

It was a beautiful walk. Tough in a few places, but overall, just gorgeous. Ate my lunch near a small river. Later on, I stopped on a little bridge by a river to both take in the view and to rest. An Italian cyclist came along and we chatted a bit. I asked him how far to Sarria as I guessed we were fairly close. He gave me a funny look and said he didn't know but ........ Samos was only a few kilometers further on!

I couldn't believe my ears! Somehow, even though I took correct turn in Tricastela, I must have made an error somewhere outside of town. I have inadvertantly added another days walking. Good Lord! This is the longer, more difficult route and certainly NOT what the plan called for. Nothing to do but carry on. The woods are mostly chestnut and oak and the Camino is often a stone-walled path. In another few kilometers I entered the village of Samos. As it turned out, I am so glad I went this way.

As I entered the village, I met the Dutch woman I had walked and chatted with in Leon. Had a cup of coffee with her. She is going on but I have decided to stay. It's a short day - only 11 km but the weather is closing in and I want to visit the centre-piece of this village - the magnificcent Monasterio de Samos. Founded around 560 AD, it rose to become one of the great centres of learning. Its library was one of the finest in all of Europe until it was tragically destroyed by fire in 1951.

I got a room in a lovely private pension - when I got my kit into the room, the woman brought me to the kitchen and asked if I would like a glass of wine or a cold beer - the beer won and it tasted good. I went out and found a bank machine and this time, my card worked. I was starting to get worried as I was down to a handul of Euros.

More typical gallego weather has set in. It is just teeming rain Its not cold but is it ever intense. You simply cannot see the buildings across the road! I'm glad I stopped because the next town is 12-13 km away. That distance would be hard enough for me - even more in this rain.

Had a great meal in a restaurant - desert was something else - whisky cake! It's cake and ice cream with whisky poured over it. I had to stop the waiter - it looked like he was going to pour the entire bottle over it! Re-worked my plan during my meal. If I stick with say 13 km a day, I can be in Santiago de Compostela by the end of the month. Its an easy pace, especially if this rain continues which can certainly be the case in this part of the world. I really want to enjoy this last 100-120 km. Called home and chatted with Mom. Called Danielle as well and left a message for Michael. Went back to my room, stopping to buy groceries on the way. Had a nap.

Went to Vespers (evening prayers) at the Monastery. It was sung in Gregorian Chant. It was simply beautiful. An ancient gothic chapel, dim lighting and that magnificent music! After Vespers, I walked around the cloister for a bit and then went to mass in the main chapel. It too was sung and time seemed to stand still. I am sooo glad I ended up walking this way.

Walked back to my room in the poring raim. The husband of the couple who own this pension invited me in for a glass of his own wine. It was good wine and we had a good conversation. He refused payment for the beer his wife gave me earlier, saying it was an act of hospitality that they extend to all pilgrims. Later, I returned to my room where I made a simple meal. Read a bit, fixed the bandage on my foot and went to bed. Hope its not raining in the morning.

Ultreya

17 October 2006

2007-01-15T07:08:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymory

Left Toronto 1 month ago! What a month!

Cool, damp and cloudy day. Up and out at first light (8:30) . Walked about 5 km to Hospital de Condessa for breakfast. Met Bernadette leaving the bar - she had left before dawn. Chatted with an American pilgrim while enjoying an excellent cup of cafe con leche. Left and continued climbing up (no surprise there!) to Alto de Poio. In the village on the pass is a tiny, snug bar with a cheery fire crackling in the hearth. Sat by the fire and warmed my bones as I savoured a hot coffee. This little village used to belong to the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, the Knights of Malta who operated a hospice here and patrolled the pass.

Leaving the bar and the village, the Camino began a long descent. Now, I'm not complaining, but steep drops can be just as arduous and 600 metres (approx 2,500 feet) is a strenuous drop. Decided to go on to Biduedo.

It was a beautiful walk to Biduedo - got there about 1:30, rather footsore. If I wanted, I could get a room here but there is still walking time left. What to do. Do I try for As Pasantes, 5 km further? If there is 'no room at the inn', its another 2-3 km further to Triacastela. Decided to go for it. I know it doesn't sound like much, but to me, another 8 km represents some 2 hours more of walking and I am always the last person to arrive at an albergue which means a real risk of no bed.

Got to As Pasantes and for neither love nor money could I find the the little inn. No-one there seemed to know it either. Might as well get going. Onward to Triacastela. It was a pleasant walk there and I arrived about 3:30 - not bad time for what turned out to be closer to 9 km in 2 hours. Had an interesting incident along the way. As I was walking along, I heard my full name being called out. I turned and there was a Spaniard coming up behind me. He introduced himself as Iniego and asked if I was Michael Leahy. When I said 'yes', he held out his hand - and my credential! It must have fallen out of my pocket somewhere behind me. It took my breath away.

Found a nice little inn. Got my own room with a very tiny bathroom (and even tinier shower). There are a number of bars and restaurants here and this used to be an important stopping point along the Camino. The town was established around 860 AD. Visited the church for my stamp and then bought some chorizo, bread and wine and sat in the small garden of the inn to write. Made some calls home as well. Went to bed and slept very well (after checking my credential was safely packed away!).

Ultreya

16 October 2006

2007-01-07T10:37:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymory

This would be what Vince Leahy calls a 'character-building' day. I climbed about 800 meters (2,600 feet) over a distance of some 11 kilometers. It was a lovely day. Up (always up!) quiet lanes and paths. Thought at times my lungs and heart would burst! The views however are fantastic. Got out of the way of a herd of cattle on a narrow stretch of the Camino - a very mucky trail behind that herd.

Got to O Cebeiro about 2:30 - not bad time but totally done in. Got a room in the albergue and slept for about an hour. The weather here on this mountain can be very bad and summer snowstorms are not unheard of. The other thing is that it is soooo changeable, going from clear sunny skies to fog and then driving rain accompanied by a fast-falling thermometer - all in a relatively short time.

When I woke up, the weather had indeed changed for the worse. The temperature had probably dropped by 10-12 oC, dense fog had rolled in accompanied by a cold, hard rain. I showered and headed out to get a meal. Here is where I miss my fleecy and my jacket. Found a snug little bar - thick stone walls, a roaring firelace to keep the chill off and the soft murmur of voices and accents from around the world. And realized I had left my money clip on my bunk. Hurried back in the rain hoping I would not have a repeat of the theft in Estella. Everything was exactly where I had left it. But, who did I meet but Bernadette, the Irish lawyer I had last seen in Viana. She had just arrived so maybe we may be able to chat latter. Back through the rain to the bar, The splash of yellow light through the open upper 1/2 of the wooden door onto the wet cobble stones was so inviting. Found a table near the fire and enjoyed a relaxing drink as the wind howled outside.

Perhaps its just the weather but got to thinking. "Maybe I'm just flailing my oars in the wind. Why finish? I think I have what I want. Ego? To say 'I did it?' " Made me think of the people who treat it as a competition - who did the most kilometers that day, who did it the fastest. I don't have an answer but I did notice that there was now sleet mixed in with the driving rain. This could be a cold night. Wonder what tomorrow will be like.

Bernadette joined me about an hour later and we had a good dinner. We talked and debated for the rest of the evening. It was good fun and I felt better with the rest, a good meal and good company. Back to the albergue and into bed. Slept well but the room was small, hot and stuffy with 8 of us crammed in together. BUT, better than being cold!

Ultreya

15 October 2006

2007-01-07T04:41:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymory

Ponferrada in the dim light of pre-dawn. Alberto dropped me off in the centre of town, by a yellow arrow. I watched him pull away with a wave, adjusted my ruck and headed west. I felt very well rested. Although my shoulder still ached, the medication was working and the painkillers did their job. My feet and knee where feeling fine. And I had a full day ahead of me to walk. It was 6:30 AM and my goal was Villafranca del Bierzo, about 20 km ahead. Estimated I'd be there by shortly after noon.

Although it was dark, the camino was relatively easy to follow as it was well marked. As dawn broke, I found myself walking through recently-harvested vineyards. If anyone has read or seen the 'Sharpe' series about a company of riflemen in the Napoleonic wars in Spain, the town of Cacabelos would appeal. During the first attempt to take on the French via Spain, the British army under Sir John Moore was badly mauled. They were in a full retreat, verging on a rout, across Galicia to the port city of A Coruna where boats were waiting for them (shades of Dunkerque?). At any rate, in Cacabelos, a rifleman named Thomas Plunkett shot the French General through the head, bringing the French army to a standstill. This enabled Moore to continue his escape. Little did he know he was to die in A Coruna.

Villafranca del Bierzo is a beautiful small town that seemed to be bypassed by the industrial revolution. The town centre is a maze of narrow little streets and the town is also home to a most beautiful parador - one of the unique hotels operated by the Spanish government in restored castles, monestaries and casa grandes. As expected, I had made good time and there were no warning 'twinges' from my knee. It was 12:30 and I had to decide - go on or stay. There are 2 villages about 4 km apart past Villafranca, each with an albergue or small hotel. Having stayed in Villafranca in other years, I decided to walk to Pereje and then decide whether or not to continue. Got to Pereje about 1:30. Tired! The albergue was definitely simple. Asked a how far to the next albergue and was told about an hour walk. I hadn't seen many pilgrims so I decided to go for it, knowing that there is an albergue and 3 hotels in La Portela.

Arrived at 3:00. I'm beat - knee starting to ache a bit. Checked out the small hotel and for only 5 Euros more, I got a small room. There was a bar in the hotel so I just had a short to dinner.

Rested, showered, ate, chatted a bit with some local people and went to bed early- its been a long day.

Ultreya

14 October 2006

2007-01-07T04:12:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymory

Woke up from a sound sleep. My shoulder and arm still ache but the various drugs I'm taking are helping. As soon as I got up, I saw my clothes neatly folded on a side table. Apparently after I feel asleep, Nieves came into my room, took all my clothes and washed them. What can you say!

Some pilgrimage! This morning at breakfast, Alberto announced that he would like to have bacalao (a Gallego delicacy made with cod) for dinner. I asked if there was a restaurant in the village (doubtiing it). Alberto just chuckled and pointed to the mountains - "over there - in Portugal!". First though, we picked up their niece Loly who is a math teacher in the local high school. On the way, we drove out to an old hermitage called Las Ermitas. Tucked into a deep narrow valley, the church is stunning. We stopped in a village for our mid-day meal. During the meal, I probably answered a thousand questions about the Camino. They were keenly interested in what I was doing, although I think I noticed Nieve's shake her head a few times - lol.

Portugal was closer than I thought and the bacalao was indeed delicious. On the way back, we stopped at an old, unused house in the countryside. There, we met a group of Alberto's friends. It turned out that everyone of them was related somehow. We drank fabulous wine, ate homemade chorizo (a delicious Spanish sausage), fresh-baked bread and chestnuts and walnuts collected from the neighbouring trees - all amid much laughter and animated conversation. A man came by with a boar that he had shot. There it was - in the trunk of his car! Drank more wine, ate more chorizo and examined the boar again. All-in-all, a fabulous time. And the wonderful thing is - this wasn't done for me. This is the natural Spanish hospitality and zest for living.

When we returned, we went to Loly's home and, again, enjoyed some fabulous wine that comes from the bodega or winery that Alberto co-owns. (He also likes to keep his hand directly in the winemaking process and makes his own - in a small barn outside of town, he has some 15,000 liters of red and white wine fermenting!). My shoulder was aching like hell but the pills (and the wine) helped.

Pierre Arnold called me. He had spoken with Vince Leahy and heard about my (mis) adventures and called to express his concern. We laughed about my pilgrimage detour to Portugal BUT - I did get to see the Ruta de la Plata, the 1000 kilometer Camino from Sevilla, far to the south. We crossed it on our way across the mountains to Portugal. We'll talk about that in Toronto.

Alberto is picking me up about 5:30 AM to take me back to Ponferrada so I can continue. Better enjoy this bed tonight!

Ultreya

13 October 2006

2007-01-07T04:07:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymory

As a historical note, 699 years ago today, the order of the famed Knights Templar was brutally suppressed giving rise to the superstition of Friday the 13^th being a day of bad luck.

Woke up in excruciating pain. Something is seriously wrong with my left shoulder and arm. As the hours passed, it only got worse. I tried to leave to continue but the pain was so intense that continuing was simply out of the question. I could not lift my ruck without help and when I set out, the pain of its weight on my shoulder was terrible. Ponferrada is just up ahead so a decision was made to take me to the hospital there. Tomas’ friend Teofilo and an Italian pilgrim named Federika took me and it was a pain-clouded trip down the mountainside.

Even without a European health insurance card, the doctors took me and began to run tests. They determined that I had torn muscles and cartiledge and ligaments in my shoulder. – Great! After some 6 hours, I was released with my arm in a sling and a bag full of drugs. Teofilo and Federika had stayed with me the entire time and now helped me find a room. Words cannot convey how grateful I am to them for all that they did for me.

Once I got into my cell-like room, I took the drugs and fell into a drug-induced sleep for the rest of the day. What a situation – first feet, then knee, now this. What next? At least the drugs work.

After waking, I found that I could manage with the painkillers. Have decided to take another day or even 2 to just rest up and heal. If this clears up, I think I’m OK for the last 200 km. So much for Friday the 13^th! Went back to bed.

Woke up to my phone ringing – it was Vince Leahy! He and Pierre Arnold and Dave Williamson had finished their Camino and were back in Canada. It was great to hear his voice as I was feeling at the bottom of the barrel. Felt cheered by our chat.

Spoke with my friend Alberto who lives in a nearby town. We had been looking forward to getting together but I suggested that it might not work this time as I was not in great shape. His reply was to say that he would be here in and hour or so. Went back to bed to get some more sleep before he arrives.

About 2 hours later, Alberto and his sister Nieves arrived. Nieves insisted I vacate the hotel and come stay with them. It was simply too good an offer to refuse (as if Nieves would listen anyways) and after getting a partial refund from the hotel, I was on my way. My Spanish is holding up well. An hour later, we were at their home and I was settled. I have decided that I am going to take a 2 day pause in my walk to recuperate and visit.

After getting settled, we went out to visit some of their friends and afterwards, Nieves made a terrific dinner. Soon after, I was in bed – a soft, immaculately clean bed, with real pillows in a lovely room. I slept like a stone. What a day.

Ultreya

12 October 2006

2007-01-07T04:05:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymery

I slept in and didn’t get away til nearly 10:00 am – but I’m not too concerned as I am only planning to walk to Manjarin, about 10 km up the trail. There I will stay at a primitive albergue run by a man well-known as Tomas the Hospitallero. Got a 2 or 3 km out of Rabanal when I realized that I had forgotten to get a ‘sello’ or stamp for my credential. Walked back and got it and retraced my route out of town – so much for 10 km.

I walked through Foncebadon, a virtually abandoned village. I say virtually because there is a bar there with a sad-looking bartender and a woman in the road who looked to be a few years older than God. As I walked along the Camino towards her, she began to shriek and scream at me. I had absolutely no idea what her problem was! Maybe she thought I was after the sheep she was shepherding down the road. At any rate, believe it or not she began to approach me slashing the air with her staff and spitting at me! I couldn’t believe my eyes! I ended up taking a baseball batter's stance with good old Aymery and she turned away. Maybe I’d behave that way if I lived there too – who knows.

As the Camino wound its way upwards, the temperature got cooler and cooler and the rain became more steady. The wind definitely picked up. It was shrieking by the time I reached Cruz de Ferro. Cruz de Ferro is, as the name says, a large iron cross set atop a 50 to 75 foot pole. At its base, rises a very large cairn made up entirely of small stones and pebbles. Although a Christian monument now, its roots go back to the mists of time. Celts, when crossing mountain passes or other very high places, would leave an offering of a few stones or pebbles to calm the mountain gods. When the Romans conquered the region, they simply adapted that religious custom, calling them ‘murias’ in honour of Mercury, their god of travellers and messengers. I had to smile when I looked at the cairn, thinking of the cap badge of our cadet corps (Signals) and our sponsoring regiment (Communications) with its depiction of Mercury. As the Camino developed, a cross was erected to Christianize the site.

I was alone so I thought, with some disappointment, that I would not be able to get a picture. Just at that moment, out of the rain walked a French pilgrim named Jean-Michel. We exchanged greetings and we each have our picture record of making our offering at the cross. A pilgrimage custom is to pick up a pebble from near your front door as you leave to begin your pilgrimage. You deposit it at the foot of Cruz de Ferro, symbolically leaving your burdens there. I also picked up a pebble from the ground near the Cross – a cadet asked me if I would do that for him and so, I guess symbolically, I have just replaced one burden with another – lol. Overall, the day was cold and rainy – a suitable mood for a pre-christian, pagan site and ritual.

Reached Manjarin mid-afternoon. It is primitive – low stone buildings, 1 small lightbulb, wood stove for warmth. But the welcome was warm and genuine. I was given a spot on the floor upstairs to sleep. I chose a spot next to the chimney a

s I expect this will be a cold night. Even in mid-afternoon is was dark outside as well as cold, windy and rainy. I just laid down until dinner. There really was little else to do as the place was cramped and dark too. Dinner was about 9:00 PM. There is a beautiful tapestry hanging on one

wall of the eating area. It shows several Templar knights preparing for battle with the dim skyline of Jerusalem in the distance. Managed to get a picture of that. There are 2 girls staying here as well as another fellow. The atmosphere certainly is medieval. The hospitallero, Tomas, fancies himself as a modern-day reincarnation of the old templar knights and lives and behaves accordingly – interesting.

I had slipped on the pathway earlier and fell on my left shoulder so it was a bit sore. It began to hurt a lot at dinnertime so I went upstairs to bed.

It was an interesting night under the eaves. The space was very cramped and the roof boards were just above my nose! The wind howled, dogs howled, cats prowled, the fire went out. I was cold.

Ultreya

11 October 2006

2007-01-07T04:00:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymery

Leaving Astorga, you enter an area known as the ‘Maragato’. This region is the home to an ancient group of people who for centuries made their living as muleteers, transporting goods across the length and breadth of Spain. Much of their unique culture is slowly disappearing but one of their gifts to the modern pilgrim is some wonderfully delicious cuisine. The walking was terrific. The sky was moody and overcast with tendrils of fog and skiffs of rain – a ‘soft day’ as the Irish would say. I saw my first thatched roof, fallen in on an old building.

Rabanal del Camino is a rather haunting place. It is busy here as pilgrims seem to stop here to ready themselves for the push up to Cruz de Ferro and O Cebreiro. The weather is cool and damp. This village is definitely off the beaten path in Spain. I checked out the albergue and decided to take a room in a nice Posada. After being cool and damp all day, I just wasn’t up for spending a night in an unheated place with only cold water for showers – brrrrr. Met up with Carina again! She’s staying at the albergue – wished her well for her cold shower – lol. We went out for dinner and were joined by Fr. Winfrid, the German priest I had met in Hospital de Orbigo. We had an excellent dinner in the Posada and I slept like a rock.

Ultreya

10 October 2006

2006-12-31T05:30:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymery

A beautiful morning. Had breakfast with Joe, Jacques and Fr. Winfrid. It was very simple but hit the spot. Red sky which likely means rain but its still lovely for the moment. The Camino follows the highway to Astorga - and when I say follows, I mean it - at times right beside it! The day turned cool and cloudy with skiffs of rain but generally was ok. My feet are much better and my knee is better too.

Met two Canadian women in Astorga. Their husbands are in the Canadian Forces and they are traveling on their own - not doing the Camino but simply as tourists. We had a nice chat. Visited the cathedral. The retablo was done by a student of Michaelangelo and Raphael. I love the comment I read somewhere that Becerra, the artist, must have sat in the front row of his art class as it is so gorgeous. The bishop's palace is well-know for its design as the architect was Gaudi, one of Spain's and the world's great architects.

Astorga is the centre of the chocolate industry in Spain and when I have been here in the summer, you can catch the scent of it in the air. I bought chocolate in the same store I have in previous times ..... and it is still to die for! There used to be a statue of a pilgrim, similar to the ones on top of Alto de Perdon. However, it is gone now, having been badly damaged by vandals. What a shame.

I finally managed to connect with my friend Alberto Gonzales! He wants to get together when I arrive in Ponferrada. I will call him 1-2 days out and we will make more detailed plans then. I think I will stay in a hotel tonight. The bunks last night were fine and the room was clean. But, the room was tiny and we were packed in like sardines and the bunks were LOW. Banged my head and elbow everytime I moved in it. So did just about everyone else. Oh, and the shower was ice cold and therefore, very short. Tonight, a long hot shower and a clothes wash.

Ultreya

Out of Hospital de Orbigo 10 Oct 2006

2006-12-31T05:00:00.000-05:00

Dear Aymory

After much verbal abuse from my sister, I have decided to leave the beautiful albergue and bring you, dear reader, on down the Camino.

On a more serious not, I am flattered and humbled that people have read my blog on this Camino and are interested in how it unfolds. The initial reasons for the pause in updating this was simply the lack of internet access. I guess inertia explains the rest. However, dear reader, we must walk on.

Hospital de Orbigo is a small community west of Leon. Its salient feature is its bridge over the Orbigo river. It is a beautiful and very long bridge It is the site of what was likely the last great jousting match in all of Europe. In 1434, a knight, Don Suero de Quiniones, pledged his love to a woman who, regrettably did not reciprocate. He had an iron collar fashioned and had it fastened around his neck as a sign that he was bound to her. He swore he would not remove it until he had broken 300 lances (defeated 300 challengers) on the bridge. Knights poured in from all over Europe and all that summer, he met them, fully armoured, on the bridge of Orbigo. And, he defeated them. Once he had met his challenge, he made his pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. There, he had the collar cut off and, for many years, it rested around the neck of the statue of St. James. Today, it is in the cathedral museum next door. This event has been thought by some to be Miguel Cervantes' inspiration for the literary character Don Quixote in his great novel The Man of La Mancha.

As I mentioned in yesterdays blog, while I was on the bridge, soaking all of this up, who should appear but Carina Jacobi, the Swedish woman I crossed the Pyrenees with. It was great to see her and we spent an enjoyable time catching up and had a delightful lunch. I have decided to stay here. The albergue is a very beautiful building that used to be the chapter house of the knights of the Order of Saint John. She has decided to go on to Astorga but we had a very nice lunch. She made an interesting comment during lunch: "We are on the camino to meet ourselves and to have a conversation with ourselves ...... and to listen to ourselves."

Later in the afternoon, I met Jacques from Trois Rivieres, a German priest named Fr. Winfrid and a fellow Torontonian - Joe Porcelet. We had a great dinner together. Went to bed and slept well.

9 October 2006 Thanksgiving Day

2006-10-09T08:48:00.000-04:00

Dear Aymery

Its been a week since I´ve been able to update this. Been in villages where there was no internet, no computers, etc. etc. Decided that what I´m going to do is simply update this with impressions, experiences and observations that span several days walking.

I really like Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The church is very beautiful and the town is quite nice. Spent some time with the people I have met over tha past couple of days. Interesting how it lifts the spirit to see a familiar face or hear your name called out over the noise of a plaza.

As you leave Sto. Domingo, the terrain becomes more rolling as you approach the meseta or central plains. And the sky gets increasingly ´bigger´. Watched farmers harvesting potatoes and saw a sign that said ´brujas´ which means ´witches´. This is a celtic concept and I was surprised to see it outside of Galicia.

In Tostanos, I saw a church that was built right into a large cave. Its cold, windy and rainy today, by the way - about 12 degrees (I miss my fleece). Even the sunflower fields look cold and dismal.

Montes de Oca seems so foreboding. It was a dangerous place in the middle ages, full of thieves and robbers (probably wearing fleeces!!). A cool, damp and cloudy day makes it easy to imagine the fears of pilgrims as they made their way through dense thickets and along forest tracks. Easy to see how this could be a thieves paradise.

Blew the budget on phone calls. Called my mother, my children and some friends. This experience certainly gives one the option of studying their life and sorting what's important from what isn´t. Food, a bed and friends seem to top the list.

Burgos is a beautiful city. Stayed in a favourite hotel (Meson del Cid) instead of the albergue. Enjoyed a long hot bath - I know some may think that hardly warrants a comment but after a few days of short cold showers, trust me its a simple pleasure of life not to skipped when offered. The Cathedral is, like so many, magnificent. So much is dedicated to El Cid, Rodrigo Diaz de Vivar, the great Spanish warrior of the 11th century.

It was a good walk out of Burgos but it turned into a longer day than planned. I noticed as I passed through villages that the albergues were closed. Bedbugs it turns out! In Najera, I had seen a girl completely covered in bites from head to toe - last seen being taken to the hospital. Thankfully, the weather has been gorgeous today. Crossed two rivers (Arlanzon and Urbel) - both were delightful places with bubbling water, lots of birds in surrounding trees, ducks in marshy areas - refreshing for the senses. I walked along wooded paths and open fields and can see the meseta beginning.

I believe an enduring image of Castille y Leon will be flies. Flies everywhere: walking, sitting, in restaurants and bars - EVERYWHERE.

The pleasant silence of the albergue in Hontanas was shattered by three cyclists who came in and never stopped yelling and shouting - didn´t give a damn about anyone else. Eventually told by a hospitalero to quieten down or leave. Grumbled for the rest of the night.

Found an internet connection with a USB port. Waited in line for an hour and then it wouldn´t work. I am not sure where I am going to be able to upload these photos. Most internet cafes have the computer completely enclosed in a sealed box. Often the staff know nothing about computers or the internet.

Left Hontanas in the gloom of dawn - its a nice time to walk. Walked along quiet farm tracks and paths. At the ruins of the ancient Convento de San Anton, I paused to reflect on their work. They set up an Order to deal with people who had a leprosy-like disease which was rampant in Europe in the middle ages. The arch of the Convent spans the Camino. In the middle ages, gates were locked at sundown The monks left food in nitches in the wall for late comers. Nowadays, pilgrims can and do leave notes in them, held in place by pebbles. Left mine as well.

Got lost in Castrojeriz - not a place to get lost in because every street goes in only one direction - UP. There are two albegues in Castrojeriz - one (apparently the nicer of the 2) was open and had a few beds left. The other albegue was closed and was reportedly filthy. Nice to know, especially with the recurrent bedbug problems.

Had a light meal in the local bar. The owner is very droll :). Met an English girl named Hannah. She has walked all the way from England - wow. She asked about my OSJ ring. I explained and she commented that she thought we were all dead! Met a Canadian woman (Anna) who said she recognized me from a meeting in London, Ont. that I had attended several months ago - small (no, make that very small) world. In the bar, the owner was joking with several friends while his wife worked in the kitchen. At one point her brought in a large bunch of perfectly ripe grapes. Proudly, he stated that they were from the garden out back. At that moment, his wife passed by with a pleasant smile on her face. As she did, the owner's friend said that she was the rose in her garden. She blushed but the quick look that passed between them spoke volumes. Who said such gallantry can be found only in the salons of Madrid!!! :)

Went back to the albergue and laid down - my knee is very sore. Slept for a couple of hours and woke up to the sound of rain. Decided to go out for dinner (its about 10:00 PM). Went back to the same bar and had a terrific meal. The local wine is to die for. As the time passed, the bar steadily filled with local people and soon echoed to not just Spanish but also English, French, German, etc. In the background 'Don't Cry For Me, Argentina' softly played. In this ancient, stone-walled room with its heavily beamed ceiling, time stood still.

Spoke with my business partner for a bit - she has everything in hand (no surprise there) Even in business, I am fortunate. Sherry is an excellent teacher and partner and I am able to walk my days free of concerns about our business.

On another evening while having dinner, I thought about how my knee hurt. Got to thinking about pain. Maybe, the small (and I do mean small) gift of pain is to focus our attention. It narrows your perspective to ´here and now´ and slows you down. It´s also a message from our body to ¨Hey! Pay attention - now.¨

Lost the chip in my palmpilot - and about two dozen pictures that were on it. Also on it were some data files - soooooooo no checking on business even if I wanted to.

One morning, I was woken up by 2 women in a bickering match over turning on the light early. The winner (meaning the snarliest) was, to my chagrin, plastered with Canadian flags. Made me cringe. Made a breakfast of bread, cheese and Type 1 coffee [Alex, Rick, Steve and Jim - NEVER underestimate how good that stuff can taste on a cold, damp morning far from home :) ]

Walked to Fromista, the middle of what once was called the ´breadbasket of the Roman Empire´. That day, I had met a couple from Montreal, Canada. He was a retired psychologist and she was speech therapist. They were lovely people and the conversation was interesting and varied as we walked. Walking through Boadilla del Camino, I passed a cross with a scallop shell with the symbol of St. James. In the 15th century, local criminals used to be executed beside it - nice irony, isn't it.

Fromista is a quiet little town with a very very old church. Stayed in a small pension where I could turn the light on when I wanted. Went out and bought some cheese, chorizo, yogurt ,mussels, bread and local wine and had a terrific feast in my room. Afterwards, had a nap. Went exploring, especially the old church. Returning, I had dinner at the pension. It was a very small dining room and it was full of German tourists who came by bus. After a good meal, I chatted a bit with the landlady and went to bed.

The next morning, I stopped in a bar/cafe for some coffee and a bit to eat. Met a French-Canadian pilgrim named Jacques who was on his way out. We chatted for a bit and then he was on his way.

Leaving Fromista, the 'meseta' really begins. Walking across the it is quite an experience. The meseta is flat. Think Saskatchewan. Think pancake or board. The horizon just never moves. You can walk all day and feel as if you´ve made no progress. I can understand why some people chose to skip this portion and in the summer it must be murder under the hot sun. The long walk into Leon along the highway is no better. But, the goal is Leon with its stunning cathedral and spectacular monastery, now one of Spain's great Paradors or hotels.

Leon is an ancient city founded by the Romans in the 1st century as a major military base. It was the permanent home of the 7th Legion, the Legio VII Gemina, from where it gets its name.The 7th Legion guarded the gold route from Galicia to Bordeaux. Found a room overlooking the Plaza Mayor - my favourite place in a Spanish city. The Cathedral is simply stunning. Incredible stained glass windows, soaring columns, an awesome example of Gothic architecture. Went to the Benedictine Monastery for a ´sello´or stamp for my ´credential´. A lovely older woman brought me across the city and we chatted all the way. Had an equally pleasant chat with a Benedictine nun.Walked along a street that was the Roman wall in the 3rd century. Wandered the streets around the square in the evening - the streets are thronged! Visited the Cathedral. It is simply breathtaking. Had a great dinner. It was a nice pleasant evening with heat lightening in the sky (tomorrow may be interesting). Went back to my room. Opened the balcony doors overlooking the square. It was a great feeling to snuggle down under heavy blankets and fall asleep overlooking a darkened Spanish square.

Its a long, flat walk to Hospital de Orbigo. The Camino goes through industrial sections of the city and generally follows the highway. Hardly a quiet, contemplative walk!

Hospital de Orbigo is famous for a major battle in 452 between the Suevi (a tribe of Celts) and the invading Visigoths who replaced the Romans after the fall of the Roman Empire (I´m sure you know all about it) and another one in late 800's between Alfonso III and the Moors. It is best known for probably the last real jousting match in medieval Europe. It took place in 1434 on a great Roman bridge and I was standing there taking pictures when I heard my name being called out. I turned and I saw a woman waving at me. It was Carina Jakobi, the woman I met crossing the Pyrenees. It was great to see her and compare notes.

We had a great reunion on the bridge and went off to have a meal. During the meal, she made an interesting comment. She said that we are on the Camino to meet ourselves and to have a conversation with ourselves. To listen to ourselves. That is an obsevation worth spending time to ponder!

Leaving the restaurant, I saw the church with a Maltese cross carved in the lintel. The priest there said the albergue was just down the street and that it used to be the chapter house of the Order of St. John. I could hardly wait to get there!

The albergue has a large Maltese cross on the floor. The hospitality was warm. Inside I met Jacques, who I had last seen in Fromista. I also met another Canadian - Joe Poncelet. Joe is from Toronto as well. Also met a German priest - a Fr. Winfrid, who also joined us. Together, we had an enjoyable dinner together.

I know this is Thanksgiving Day and I wish everyone the very very best. We have so much to be thankful for and its good to pause and reflect on that.

Ultreya

2 October 2006

2006-10-05T11:10:00.000-04:00

Dear Aymery

Walked to Santo Domingo de la Calzada today. A good walk for the first 16 km. Knee started to give out about 15 k and the last kilometer into Ciriñuela was tough. Found a bar and just dropped into a chair. Watched other pilgrims come and go. Met a Norwegian - Kjell Woll. We had a nice talk. Agreed to meet in Sto Domingo later for dinner that night. After an hour rest, I left. Tried to get a phone signal to reservate a room in a hostal instead of an albergue. but no such luck. Lots of people on the Camino and it would be my luck not to get a bed!

A young Spaniard jogged (!!!) by me with his kit on his back. He´ll probably get the last bed!

Finally got into town. Walked to the square. Lots of memories as I was here with my mother and daughter 2 years ago. Met the young 'Spaniard' who turned out to be Mexican named Carlos, trying to find his father. He guided me to a hostal run by the Cistercian order of sisters. Got a room and, after a clean-up and rest, went downstairs where I met Carlos and his father, Francisco. We went out to get a well-earned beer. Our table in the square turned out be a great one. First, Kjell came walking by. Then 2 Slovenian girls I had met in Najera come along. It was so much fun, I forgot to take a picture! Later, Kjell, Francisco, Carlos and I went out for an excellent dinner. Felt an a great deal more human by the end of the evening. Knee has settled down but I have decided to stay an extra day - both to rest and to see the Cathedral

Slept well

Ultreya

1 October 2006

2006-10-05T10:49:00.000-04:00

Dear Aymery

Today is Danielle´s birthday. Called her and we had a nice chat. Also got to speak with Michael and John. Unfortunately, Ally was out. Got up at 6:00 and was gone by 7:00. After a few kms, it was just too dark to continue - easy to miss the path and lots of dogs running. Once dawn arrived, I walked steadily through miles of vinyards. Sandals feel ok. Knee still hurts. Unfortunately, I am now also carrying my boots - heavy load. Oh well.

Got to Najera by noon. Waited in a bar until the albergue opened at 2:00. Registered and slept til 5:00. When I woke up, the hospitalleros were serving a very simple but soooo delicious Riojan dinner - a stew made from potatoes, vegietables, meat, etc. plus 'jaras'of Riojan wine (what else - after all, this is La Rioja, one of the worlds great wine making regions). It was a great evening with lots of conversation. I got talking to one of the hospitaleros, a man named Jose Maria. Turns out that he too is a brother in the Order of St. John. We had a great time and I learned to drink from a ´boda´, a jug with a long spout. Didn´t spill too much either!!!

Went to bed and slept like a stone

Ultreya

30 September 2006

2006-10-05T10:40:00.000-04:00

Dear Aymery

An interesting day. Decided to go back to Logrono to see about getting some walking sandals. Was offered a ride by a man from Orense - Arturo Rua. We went in and spent the morning together. I am quite impressed by my Spanish!!! Eventually found what I hope will be good walking sandals. Returned to the albergue and slept all afternoon.

Feet seem much better. Marcel was at his finest, making crepes to a full house. Went to the evening pilgrim´s mass - the church was quite plain outside but inside, there was a magnificent ´retablo´. Had dinner in the square and went back to the albergue and into bed. Slept well.

Ultreya

29 Sept. 2006

2006-09-30T12:29:00.000-04:00

Dear Aymery

Happy Birthday, Michael!

It was interesting to wake up and have nowhere to go. I listened and watched the others prepare to leave and then, one by one, disappear out the door into the gloom. We may meet again, we may not. The Camino imitates life.

Marcel, the hospitallero stopped by with a gift of wine for my birthday. Slept on and off all day I needed this. The swelling in my knee is visibly reduced and I have seen some improvement in my feet as well.

Received a call from my sister Mary and her husband Derek - what a delightful surprise! A little later, my daughter and son, Danielle and Michael, called from London, England. It was nice to catch up on what each of us is doing.

Did some laundry and sorted out my kit. I may look at buying some walking sandals as an alternative to my boots. Shortly afterwards, my mother called and we had a great talk. I am glad Danielle found this ´world´cell phone. I don´t mind carrying some modern technology with me as I walk this ancient route.

Met a Norwegian couple in the square and we had a pleasant conversation - they seem so ... Canadian :) Also met a French engineer walking with his daughter. Lucky man. Shared my bottle of wine with Marcel, a German student who was wondering if teaching was a ´fit´career for a man, and a French girl named Cilia. Throughout everything, a band blared rock and roll from the square where the whole village was celebrating what else but the fiesta of St. Michael.

Beginning to see some lessons as I walk. In Toronto, I could get what I needed in a moment. Not so here (assuming I want to travel as a pilgrim). Here, I stand in line and ask for what I need with the knowledge that there is a reasonable chance of being refused - food, water, assistance, etc. Its humbling and I can only imagine a person with a family in the same position trying to do his/her best to look after them. I recall before I left when I went out to get a box to ship my kit to Paris. There, in the alley was a family. The daughter, maybe 10 years old, asked me if I had to move too! I replied ´no´and asked if she did. She said ýes´.

Went back to the refugio and went to bed.

Ultreya

28 Sept, 2006

2006-09-30T12:15:00.000-04:00

Dear Aymery

Left very early. Its a long walk through suburbs and industrial areas. Knee still hurting and caught a blister forming - out with the needle and thread.

Walked along a broad pathway through a big park. I am amazed at the number of people out walking this morning. I´m sure I passed (passed??? - who is kidding who - was passed by!) probably 200 people. It was as busy and crowded as a city sidewalk. Continued out into the countryside past a large lagoon. There are plenty of birdwatching areas and children´s play areas and, amongst them, a shooting blind for bird hunters!

Walked along side a fenceline where there were hundreds of small crosses woven into the wire loops by passing pilgrims. By the time I got to the ruins of the St. John of Acre pilgrim´s hospital, I knew I would have to advance my scheduled rest day. Got into Navarette after a long slog that included portions along a highway. Found the refugio under a long covered portico with a rough cobblestone floor.

The hospitallero, Marcel, is a very nice man from France. After I got settled and had a bit of a nap, I went into the common room where Marcel was making fabulous crepes, the specialty of his native Brittany.

After relaxing and enjoying Marcel's crepes, I got directions to a clinic. I need to have someone look at my knee. Sore feet I can manage. Found the clinic and was seen by two doctors. They were very friendly and thorough. Left with a prescription for some anti-inflamatory drugs, treated blisters and directions to stop walking for a day or two til the swelling went down. Found the famacia and had an interesting discussion with the pharmacist. In Spain, pharmacists can prescribe drugs (not so in Canada) and my conversation with him was virtually another medical examination.

Returned to the albrgue where I encountered Gabrielle Malta, the Brazilian girl with the bad left knee who had arrived. After explaining my need to stay an additional day or two, along with an American fellow, we went out to the square and had a very good dinner. Came back and went to bed. Slept like a stone!

Ultreya

27 Sept. 2006 Viana to Logroño

2006-09-27T13:00:00.000-04:00

Dear Aymery

Only 10 km but boy did it hurt. Had cleared the town when I realized I didn´t have my journal. Ran back a km. Not as easy as you may think considering the ruck on my back and that it was all uphill :( but they lock these places between 8:00 am and about 3:30 pm. Door was still open and I found it. On my way out, a man and a woman said ´Hi´. Nice to hear English so I stopped to say ´hello´. He commented on my limp and offered to help. So .... Dr. Levesque, a chiropractor from Saskatoon worked on my knee for about half an hour. What a gift! What a credit to his profession.

The morning was a generally easy walk to Logroño where I found the albergue easily. Spent the late afternoon in the plaza enjoying a cold beer and catching up on my journal. When the farmacia opened, I got some foot care supplies. This afternoon is my gift to myself and I am enjoying it. I was much needed and welcome. I think we need to be nicer to ourselves more often.

Met a retired Swedish army officer. We talked about how our cadet corps works - both in Canada and ours specifically (2605 Royal Canadian Signals Corp). Later, I thought about the Corps and the many individual cadets. He was lavish in his praise for the program and it made me think about what it really takes to make it work. Rick, you definitely do a terrific job. You are a credit to the CF, as are the Brickendens, Court and Jim. It doesn´t matter if any cadets realize what you do (and I believe a lot do) - the Corps, the Regiment and our country are better for your efforts. I am proud to be a small part of what you do.

Well, bells are ringing which means I must look for dinner.

See you later, Aymory

Ultreya

26 Sept. 2006 Los Arcos to Viana

2006-09-27T12:28:00.000-04:00

Dear Aymery

Walked 19 km today. Not too bad but knee still hurts a lot. I have decided not to do more than 20 km a day, if possible as I seem to run into trouble about the 18 km mark.

Most of the day, I walked through farm fields over rolling countryside. It was a pretty good day. Miles of vinyards in a wide, long valley. Paused in Sansol for a snack and walked from there to Torres del Rio with an American businessman who has studied with the Oblate order of Catholic priests. The km drifted by as we discussed philosophy, changes that have ocurred over the years, etc. He was having a bit of a hard time too with the long climbs and the talking helped the km go by. We parted near Viana as he was going on to Logroño. I am stopping in Viana as it is i) 19 km from Los Arcos and ii) Logroñno is only 10 km tomorrow. A short day is my gift to myself for getting this far.

I have seen people flying by as if they were possessed, Japanese peregrinos wearing white gloves and face masks, a Brazilian girl whose feet were simply hamburger and whose socks just wicked blood away and anothe Brazilian girl whose left knee has given out (boy, can I identify with that!). She is young, strong and full of drive and seems profoundly let down by her body. I shared some dried fruit with her so she had some sugar to keep her going but she refused any other help. I hope she manages OK.

Viana is a pretty town and the old town or Casco Viejo is full of beautiful buildings. The church, Inglesia de Santa Maria has a fabulous Renaissance facade. But for me, what was most special was the simple tomb of Cesar Borgia in front of it. Borgia was no ´nice guy´. His father was Pope Alexanber VI and he cut a wide swath through Spanish and Italian history in the early 1500´s.

Found the albergue and then went and sat in the simple plaza for a while. Went back to the albergue and slept for a couple of hours. Going out for dinner, I was surprised to meet my Irish friend, Bernadette and 2 other Irish women. How nice it is to see a friendly face in a strange place and be greeted with an enthusiastic wave. We went to the Inglesia for an evening pilgrim´s mass. It was quite beautiful and afterwards, the priest called all pilgrims up to the front to introduce us to his parishioners and to talk with us. After a blessing, which was quite moving, he invited us into the Sacristy or private area behind the añtar. It was a stunning collection of small rooms covered with gorgeous art and containing many artifacts.. When I thanked him, he said he was simply carrying out his responsibilities as did all priests everywhere. and that he was merely the custodian of this great art.

We went for dinner and had a great time. Two of the women are nurses and boy, do their problems with their health system mirror ours.

Made me appreciate all the more the work done by the Order of Saint John and by the Craft Lodges (Alex and Dale, you guys do a fabulous job and don´t hear ´thanks´very often. So ..... - ´´Thanks´´.)

Back to the albergue and into bed by 10:00 pm Slept like a rock.

Ultreya

25 Sept. 2006 Estella to Los Arcos

2006-09-27T12:04:00.000-04:00

Dear Aymery

Left this morning a little lighter - while I was in the shower, I was robbed. My ruck was thoroughly searched and a lot taken. my first aid kit (thankfully, I kept my meds separate), my green CF fleecy which not only I liked a lot but which kept me warm on cool mornings and evenings, flashlight, compass, jacket, socks, some papers and my compass. It left a really sour taste in my mouth. When you don´t have much with you to start with, it rather hurts. I´m mostly worried about the lack of sweater and jacket as the weather is variable. I walked along in a relatively pissed off mood. This plus my aching knee and cool, windy and cloudy weather were a poor mix.

Reached Fuente del Vino in about 35 minutes and enjoyed some wine from the fountain. Toasted Canada and all my family and friends to the camera but didn´t call anyone as its about 2:45 am in Canada.

Walked on through farm fields and vinyards. Kind of grazed on walnuts, almonds, olives and grapes (lots of grapes) along the way. About 2 km from Los Arcos, I met my Irish and Swedish friends. However, my knee really began to hurt so I paused while they went on their way.

Finally made it into Los Arcos. where I found the albergue, the farmacia and the church. The church is stunningly beautiful. The ´retablo´or screen behind the altar is breathtaking. and on all sides you see magnificant paintings and sculptures. I called Michael to wish him a ´happy birthday´- not sure if I will have a connection tommorrow. Got to speak with Michael, Danielle, Ally and John. They are all in Amsterdam to celebrate his birthday and just hang out. They seem to be having a great time! I am a lucky man.

Had a nice dinner and went to bed.

Ultreya

24 Sept 2006 Puente la Reina to Estella

2006-09-25T11:09:00.000-04:00

Dear Aymery

Said ´goodbye´to my Canadian friends as they set off on other parts of their trip. Left the albergue and followed a generally uphill track. The weather is cool and cloudy but so far the rain has held off. A generally pretty route past olive groves. Near Cirauqui, it began to rain and out came the poncho. It never rained hard but the constant drizzle was enough to turn the Camino into a very slick track. Entered Cirauqui and ground my way up nearly vertical streets to a small self-serve ´selló´or stamp for my credential. Just past that covered archway, my right knee gave out. I went down like a sack of potatoes. The pain was something memorable, believe me! I struggled over to a bench in the square and more or less pulled myself together. Dug out a knee brace that I had packed just in case and hoped it would work. After about 1/2 hour of sitting in the rain, alternatively hurting and feeling sorry for myself, I decided to move on. It is Sunday and nothing is open. Soooo, not much choice.

For 15 km, I moved at an absolute snail´s pace. As long as I moved slowly and kept little pressure on it, I was OK. Alter that, and I´m sure you could have heard me in Toronto. That plus the drizzling rain made for a glum day. The bright spot was a person I had met at an albergue the other day. Bernadette is an Irish immigration lawyer and she decided to slow her pace and keep me company. Between many pauses, halts, etc, we passed the rest of the day talking and debating everything from law through philosophy, politics, etc. The time passed and eventually, after 15 very difficult km, we reached Estella. I got a bed in the albergue and simply dropped onto it and fell asleep.

A couple hours later, I was woken up to the sound of people talking about me - it was my Swedish and Irish friend come to get me for dinner. A long shower and change of clothes (plus Dr. G.´s prescription) and I felt good enough to go out for dinner. The evening was pleasant and the swelling in my knee went down. Who knows what tomorrow will bring but I will NOT forget today!

Ultreya

23 Sept 2006 Pamplona to Puente la Reina

2006-09-25T10:36:00.000-04:00

Dear Aymory

Left about 8:15 am. Beautiful day. The plan is to go to Uterga making this a shorter day of 17 km. It was a pleasant walk out of town. Stopped by an albergue run by the Order of St. John The Knights Hospitaller. No-one around but most albergues close their doors about 8:30 / 9:00 am anyways until about 3:00 pm. Tooks pics of the castle and flag.

On we went on a generally flat trail. BUT, I knew we were facing the Alto de Perdon, about a 2,500 foot climb to the top of a wind-swept ridge, lined with dozens of windmills. (You just HAVE to know that any place with the words 'height' and 'forgiveness' is NOT going to be a fun place!) It was a long, hard climb! Called Danielle from the summit and we had a nice chat :) Going down from the summit was VERY VERY hard. It was treacherously steep and rubble-strewn and my knee screamed. But, made it eventually. Limped on along laneways and footpaths lined with wild orchids, hyacinths and almond trees. Eventually we reached Uterga. Not a single bed available in the entire town! This is major! Normally, it wouldn´t be a big deal but here it is. When you are travelling on foot, everything is magnified. Options shrink, dramatically and problems intensify - weather, pain, distances to be covered, tireness, etc.

With no other options, we trudged on. hoping for the next town. In Obaños, there was an albeque - full. (The history of this village is interesting as it surrounds a silver-coated skull in the local church.) We ended up tramping another 11 km to Puente la Reina. There was a local fiesta including running bulls down the main street. We had a detour which took us off track and, with some difficulty found an albergue with 4 beds. It was 350 meters virtually straight up a ridge. I could have died!!! I struggled up, dragged myself in and, along with the others, collapsed into chairs by the bar.

After about an hour, we managed some laundry, got showered and more or less pulled ourselves back together. We were going to go back down into the town for the fiesta when the skies opened again. "Forget it! We´re staying" was the concensus.

Had dinner and enjoyed a great conversation with the other three men. While conversation along the Camino has been very good, its so much nicer to be able to finish a sentence without pausing for breath. Our conversation covered all points of the compass. Some humour has been infectious while other has simply been a way to ease a particularly difficult patch. They are easy men to be with and I will miss them when they have to leave early. I look forward to meeting with them in Toronto in November.

Walking like this also gives, as you can imagine, lots of time to reflect. Needs can become quite basic. Pilgrims are a dime a dozen along here and frequently treated as such. Slights hurt, whether here or at home. After all, you already know you look tired, sweaty and disheveled. But, simple kindnesses speak very loudly as well. - a glass of water or a friendly greeting can do wonders to lift the spirits.How many times do we ( I?? ) have the opportunity to make that simple gesture and let it slip silently by? Hopefully, I will recall my ragged image in a building window when a man gave me a glass of cold water.

Called Mom - surprised her. That was great. ;)

Found a note on my ruck when I returned from my shower - it was from Carina. Seeing my ruck in the corner, she just wanted to wish me well as she went on her way. Made some notes and went to bed.

Ultreya

22 Sept 2006 Zubiri to Pamplona

2006-09-25T10:09:00.000-04:00

Dear Aymery

All 4 of us (Vince Leahy, Pierre Arnold, Dave Williamson and I) set out together. Stopped in Larrasoaña for breakfast and then walked on. There is no sense that this is a stroll or amble down shady paths. Dear reader, disabuse yourself of that notion! For me, this is a trudge. We sweat, struggle, watch our footing, pause for breath and simply will ourselves on.The Camino is a sea of mud. A town that supposedly had a restaurant/bar (and therefore, water) didn´t. Bit disappointing.

At the bridge at Zabaldica, we paused to watch some fishermen and cheered when one of them caught a very nice looking fish. After a stiff climb,the Road follows the Rio Arga on a high trail We will follow this rio all the way to Pamplona. Arrived at the edge of Pamplonaq about 3:00 pm. Trudged several kilometers through the city. My right knee is killing me! As we approached the centre of the city, we passed imposing walls, crossed a drawbridge and passed through an old gate into the old town. As tired and sore as I am, I LOVE the vibrancy of the ´barrio antigo´or óld town´of this or any other Spanish city. The narrow streets, cafes and crowds are a delight to the senses.

After some false starts we found our Albergue, run by a nice older couple and their son. While unlimbering our kit, we heard music. I was busy cleaning the mud off my boots beside the open window when a parade of giant paper mache figures passed by. Apparently, Pamplona celebrates the feast of San Fermin twice - once when they have the famous running of the bulls and a second time in the autumn. Well, we were out the door like a shot and down to the square where we had dinner, drinks and all the people-watching you could ask for - all in a very festive atmosphere.

Finished up in a Galego bar sampling orujo. Went to bed tired and sore but pretty satisfied.

Ultreya

21 Sept. 2006 Roncesvalles to Zubiri

2006-09-25T09:58:00.000-04:00

Dear Aymery

Woke up stiff and sore. How sore, you might ask? So sore, my hair hurt! Packed quickly, had breakfast in a bar across the street and then - on my way.

The 3 Canadians I had met had left earlier as did the Swedish woman, Carina. On my way alone and liking it. Thank God the terrain is a little flatter. Walked through beech woods to Burguette where I saw others stopped for breakfast. Burguette was made famous by Hemingway as his favourite place to fish for trout. Got lost and went out of my way about 1 km. Doesn´t seem like much but it is.

The Road continued through beautiful woods where the wind blew steadily, cooling me, making the leaves rustle and the light dance. The Road was undulating and, frankly, the uphill stretches were no fun. Past Lintzoain, the Road begins a really grim uphill `portion where you trudge up to Alto de Erro - the highest point on today´s route. Along the way, I passed a stone reputed to be the length of Roland´s pace - 8-9 feet. My pace is down to 8-9 inches, I think.

Reached Zubiri and found my Albergue. Met my 3 Canadian friends again. We got settled down and then went out for a cold drink. Later, during dinner, the skies opened and a driving thunderstorm set in. Lasted all night. Tomorrow does not look like fun.

Ultreya

20 September 2006

2006-09-24T16:46:00.002-04:00

Dear Aymory

Began my assent of the Pass of Cizes at 8:ooam. Its all uphill as you can imagine and, frankly, it´s a heartbreaker. As far as you can see, on bare hills, lies the Road. And on it, small groups and solitary walkers bent both against a shrieking wind and their heavy load. So many times, I thought ´there is no way I can go another step´. Exhausting simply doesn´t come close to describing the feeling. Yet, the scenery is awesome! Rolling mountains, Golden eagles (dozens) soared all around - sometimes as near as 10 - 15 feet overhead. Goshawks, harriers, a type of eagle with striking black and white wings, falcons, kites and kestrels were everywhere. Pity the poor rabbits on the ground. After 6 grueling kilometers, I reached the Virgen d´Órisson - the statue of the Virgin Mary overlooking the stunning views of the Pyrenees. And, Marjan, I remembered.

Eventually I reached the point where the Camino leaves the roadway and becomes a grassy track, upward of course. Along a wooded stretch, I eventually reached the Fountain of Roland, the great friend of Charlemagne and hero of his battles. Filled my canteen and had my lunch of bread, cheese and chorizo. Shared it with the Swedish woman I met who didn´t think to bring any food with her on the climb. We would walk the rest of the day together.

Crossed the cattle grate that marked the border between France and Spain - felt good to be back in Spain again. Spain´s greeting was a long, difficult slog up seemingly endless ascents. I say honestly that it was a grind. At times, I was reduced to 10 paces, rest, 10 paces, rest, etc. The wind shreiked and, naturally, it was in my face. At this rate, I thought, I will do the Camino by nibbling it to death.

Finally, at a point where I was totally beat, I reached Col de Lepoder - the summit. I had climbed 1,450 meters. I looked forward to the downhillroute til I saw it - steep, twisty, rubble-strewn. Down like this is just as hard as up! But part of the route lay through sun-dappled beech woods. The views were stunning and the beauty palpable.

Roncesvalles finally. The monastery dates from about the year 1200 and was constructed to celebrate the victory of Sancho el Fuerte (the Strong) over a Moorish army. He and his wife are buried here and at the foot of his tomb are the chains of Christian prisoners freed from their Moorish captors. Those chains figure today in Spain´s national flag and the flag of Navarra. There are also caskets of bones of pilgrims who died coming over the pass. I understand why!!

Went to the refugio and got my bunk. Met the same people who helped me at Orisson. Had a glass of wine with them. Had dinner a bit later with some other pilgrims. Went to the pilgrim mass celebrated by monks of the monastery. It was a beautiful mass. Hobbled back to the refugio and went to bed.

Ultreya

19 September 2006

2006-09-24T16:46:00.000-04:00

Dear Aymery *

What a day. Started off planning to spend it in St. Jean Pied de Port (SJPP) preparing for the Camino proper. During that meditative time staring at myself in the mirror as I shaved, I thought "Why not go now!" What about going part way as I understood that the French government or some organization has certified 2 'gites' or albergues this side of the Spanish border. One is at Honto 6 km up the road and the other is at Orisson 9 km along the way. I thought 9 km would knock off a good piece of the 27 km climb. So, I called the gite at Orisson booked a room and set off.

Bought some chorizo, cheese and bread on my way out of SJPP and left through the 'Spanish Gate'. Immediately the road turned uphill.

The scenery was breathtaking - for more than one reason. I have been walking 8-12 km most days and 18-22 km on weekends. That was NOTHING compared to today. I got past Honto and the grade increased with no end in sight. Now this was mostly a reflection on me, but I was reduced to walking 10- 30 paces, stopping to rest and doing it again and again. Got a muscle cramp in my left calf and thigh that simply would NOT go away which certainly didn´t help. A fountain that was marked on maps has disappeared. But, the views were simply awesome. Everywhere, you hear the sound of cow bells from small heards grazing on high mountain pastures. After five hours, I reached the gite at Orisson. My reservation was not on their books and there was no room. The couple running it were engaged in a screaming match and showed little incentive to help me. I was tossed. To say I was dispirited would be an understatement.

While trying to sort this out, I was approached by a woman who saw my Canadian flag patch on my ruck. She was from Quebec and delighted to meet a fellow Canadian. She, her husband and a French friend were on a driving tour. After chatting a bit, they left. It was shortly after that that I was shooed out by the surly owner. What now!?

Outside were 2 English couples who had found a dog and were waiting for the owner tp show up and claim it. We agreed that I would look after the dog and get a ride back down the mountain with the owner. (Walking downhill is NOT easier than walking uphill - it just stresses different muscles and joints)

The dog and I sat there while the owners yelled and fought with each other. Felt a little glum as the afternoon was ebbing and my options were narrowing. Can you imagine how I felt when the same Quebecoise woman drove past and waved at me?! I flagged her down and in no time my ruck was in their car. But - the dog!. The alberque owners said ´No problem'. They would be delighted to look after it!!!¨"Really", I thought. "What am I? Chopped liver??" It was lost on her but at least I know where I am on the scale of life - somewhere behind a black Lab.

I went to the gite in Honto and had a remarkable late afternoon. and evening.

Met three Canadian fellows. The connections between us were surprising. One man is Vincent Leahy. I saw his post on an internet forum weeks ago. Another is a Brother in the Craft. The connections, shared affiations and people just went on and on. It was uncanny. So, the four of us, Vincent Leahy, David Williamson and Pierre Arnold and I, spent a delightful time on a patio overlooking mountain meadows - watching eagles soaring and hunting, laughing at the antics of sheep being herded past us and generally having a very enjoyable time.

Come evening, we were joined by 7 Irish women and a Swedish woman. It was a terrific meal with lots of humour, good stories and fine conversation - the food wasn´t bad either! I guess I am kind of grateful for what happened at Orisson.

I am NOT looking forward to doing that climb all over again, though.

Night falls fast in the Pyrenees. Before going to bed, I sat out a bit and stared at an inky black sky studded with billions of stars. The Milky Way seemed close enough to touch (In Spain, they call the Milky Way the ´Compostela´- hmmmmm) In spite of a very arduous day, including an icy cold shower, it really has been memorable. You can´t stare at a sky so magnificent and not consider that there is some type of plan at work.

*Now - regrding Áymery´. Aymery Picaud is a French monk who lived in the 12th century. He is credited by some as the author of the Codex Callixtinus, the earliest written description of the Camino de Santiago. As I was struggling my way up the Pass of Cizes, I decided that my beautiful staff, made by my friend Austin Repath, should have a name, as I was increasingly relying on it for support. I have decided to name it Áymery´in honour of Picaud and my journal will henceforth refer to him/it. Hope neither he nor Austin minds

Ultreya.

17 / 18 September 2006

2006-09-21T18:49:00.000-04:00

Left the house at 4:56 pm. Finally on my way. It was an interesting feeling driving away from my home. to ´who-knows-what´down the road. But, all the thought, planning and preparations are over. It´s time for doing now.

Made sure the stones I picked up outside my door were safely tucked away.

Fast check-in and baggage check (all my kit was in a box whose wight probably went up by 2-3 kg from the duct tape).My ruck wasn´t the only piece of un-cooperative kit. I have religiously kept track of the weight of my kit with an old scales. I know my packed weight went up about 5 pounds but at the airport it was up about 12 pounds! At least I have walked with most of that weight for months but I know where that scales is going when I get home!

The plane lifted off at 9:39 pm - next stop Montreal and then Paris. Our route took us east along the waterfront of Toronto. I looked down on the route I have walked for months - it seems like an old friend now.

Arrived in Paris early which was welcomed as I only had 90 minutes to get baggage, clear customs and find the next gate for my connection to Biarritz. It could not have been any further away and still be in France! Made it with 2 minutes to spare! Flight was rough but on time. Bus to Bayonne and then train to St. Jean Pied de Port - the starting point.

Went directly to the Pilgrim´s office to register and then hunted out a cheap hotel. I´m knackered but a decent meal, glass of good wine, hot bath and sound sleep (in a horizontal position) will likely do wonders.

Ultreya

17 September 2006

2006-09-17T10:51:00.000-04:00

Well ...... this is it. Ride to the airport comes at 5:00 pm and flight leaves at 9:00 pm. Just the usual last-minute running around. Down to hours now. Hard to believe that 7-8 months planning and preparation have flashed by. Hard to avoid the "ifida's" - you know: "If I had done this, ...." . Oh well, ruck is packed, boots by the door. Its going to happen.

Final 'stuff' to attend to - only about 3 hours left.

I had a moment to reflect on things as I paused with a cup of coffee. Spoke with a couple of good friends today - 1 in a mall and the other in a huge parade! Both incidents remind me (as if I needed reminding) that I am blessed with wonderful friends. Some I was with in London, earlier this week. Others gathered with me at our favourite club (Royal Canadian Military Institute) to share some drinks, some excellent food and warm friendship. As noted earlier, I shared good times, food and drink with friends from my Order and friends from our Signals Cadet Corps. I have a good business partner in whom I have confidence enough that I can leave to do this pilgrimage. Not much room to complain, is there!!! :)

About an hour left. Enough time for a shower, change into traveling clothes and have a final cup of coffee before the great adventure begins.

Next update will be from Europe :) .

Ultreya

15 September 2006 (ii)

2006-09-17T10:19:00.001-04:00

Not much more done. Juggled this with responsibilities for the Order of St. John and ended up with a long (but satisfying) day. Went out for dinner with my mother and with some good friends. One is visiting from Geneva and it is so good to see him again. During the eveneing, we were pleasantly surprised when another friend and his wife came into the same establishment along with some of their family. We ended up with two tables pushed together and had a wonderful time. Reflecting later, (they don't call them 'truisms' for nothing) its the people in your life that matters, not the stuff.

Ultreya

15 September 2006 (i)

2006-09-15T17:52:00.000-04:00

It used to be a matter of days. Now, its down to a day and a half! - mere hours. Have worked like crazy to get things done at work - with mixed results. :(

And packing! - that's a whole other matter. If I wasn't satisfied about my ruck before, we are not exactly on friendly terms right now! I think it needs some more work (or whittling down, although its pretty spare as it is).

Oh well - lots to do yet. I'll update this a bit later.

Ultreya

5 September 2006

2006-09-09T01:04:00.000-04:00

Met with a friend who has done the Camino three times. I first met Austin Repath via e-mail. I had read his account of his pilgrimage on the net one morning in late February. Seeing an e-mail link, sent him a note thanking him for taking the time to write it.

Turned out he lived in Toronto too - not all that far away either! Wasn't long before we met for some excellent tapas and superb Spanish wine at my favourite Spanish restaurant (Segovia).

We talked and exchanged ideas - mostly he talked and I listened. I learned a lot from him and when we parted we agreed to stay in touch. He offered to make me a staff if I would like, someting I readily agreed to. We have met a couple of times since.

Today, we met in a downtown pub and he presented me with a beautiful pilgrim's staff. I am touched by the fact that he took the time to craft it and will carry it with pride and pleasure.

My months have shrunk to weeks and now days and they are rapidly dwindling to hours. Am I ready - probably as much as I can be. My business is in good hands, I am as physically prepared as I can be and really all thats left is to simply go and do it. And not think about the total length!!!!!!! :)

Ultreya

2 September 2006

2006-09-09T00:58:00.000-04:00

Went for a long walk along the Martin Goodman Trail. I don't know where my head was at but totally forgot about the air show! From HarbourFront west, the trail was PACKED with people. It was like walking in a shopping mall on Boxing Day (for you non-Canadians, this is a traditional shopping day immediately following Christmas day wherein everyone whose craving for crowds and more shopping/spending can get another consumer 'fix' in a day that could best be described a sheer madness).

Eventually, recognized the futility of it and called a halt. Watched the Air Show from a favourite Legion along the waterfront and enjoyed the cold beer. Hey - even pilgrims get thirsty :)

Ultreya

31 August 2006

2006-09-09T00:55:00.000-04:00

The past week or so has seen lots of 6 - 10 km walks, mostly along the waterfront. Starting to feel the press of time. More and more things to do and less and less time to do them. Walking is now seeming to become a luxury, a little prize to be captured in off moments. Maybe its just the pressure of getting ready to leave.

Ultreya

21 August 2006

2006-09-08T23:44:00.001-04:00

Left home and took the subway to the end of the line (Kipling Station). Walked back with a full ruck. 18.12 kilometers in 4 hours. A good, average pace.

Walking half way across Toronto (I live downtown) is like a trip across cultures. Polish, Ukranian and Maltese bakeries wafting rich aromas of fresh breads and rolls, intense discussions in sidewalk cafes about the demise of the Soviet Union and the Ukraine's place in the world, churches with names like St. Stanislaus and St. Casimir.

A little further along, the language and accents change to the more sibliant sounds of Portuguese and Italian. Groups of men standing outside cafes and bars arguing and discussing everything from politics to 'the old country'; soccer games from Europe flickering on silent screens (and cold Moretti beer that I can almost taste).

Passing on my way, I see the signs changing to Korean. Blocks later comes Chinese. All these neighbourhoods just run together creating a vibrant city. And, this is the best place in the world to be during world cup!! As I passed a churasquiria, there is still a flag waving. Spanish spoken under a Mexican flag. Makes you wonder why people can't get along elsewhere - and it worries me when people bring all their disputes and problems here.

Soon into busy main streets by the university. Late evening shoppers hustling about and trendy cafes. Such a contrast between these glass and chrome bars and the more basic plain rooms with open fronts and animated groups surrounding the tables.

And on down through the neighbourhoods towards home. I think my feet know they are getting closer to home! Sore, but no blisters.

And finally, the pleasure of slipping a heavy ruck off aching shoulders and easing boots off tired feet. That cold beer splashing against the back of my throat was much appreciated! Bet I'll sleep well tonight.

Ultreya

18 - 20 August

2006-09-08T23:38:00.000-04:00

From notes in journal

Spent the past few days working on my ruck. Seems that it is never exactly the way I want it. Is there a lesson here? lol

Bought some kit and prepared some paperwork such as lists of albegues or refugios, a terrific planner and profile of the route compliments of godesalco.com and a general itinerary.

Not much walking done but necessary preparations.

Ultreya

One Month To Go

2006-09-08T23:17:00.000-04:00

Notes written in my journal on 17 August 2006.

17 August 2006 0730

Well, one month from today, I leave for Paris to begin my camino. Its interesting that it started out as "the camino" but, over the months of planning and preparation, it has become "my camino".

Don't know what I'll find (if anything) or what will happen but I'm open to just about anything. Pehaps today will be auspicious - beautiful morning, lovely sunrise, cool and quiet. I love walking through dewy grass, hearing the sibliant swish as the blades paint delicate lines on my boots. Looking behind and seeing ghost tracks across the park meadow, first ones already drying in the sun.

In my neighbourhood, we have a farm, a working model of a mid-1800's Ontario farm. Here, in the centre of our large city, I can pause and watch cattle [both of them :) ] calmly enjoying fresh hay while the subways fill with workers and the expressways jam with motorists - I wonder who is enjoying their morning more! I think this presages more of what I will see on the camino.

Not happy or satisfied with my rucksack, but then, am I ever? I'm sure I will have it sorted out by the time I leave (yeah, right!). Feet are better today. I rarely have gotten blisters over the months I have been walking but when I do - wow are they ever big! (and painful). Usually my duct tape under two pairs of socks works very well but every now and then the system fails and its out with the needle and thread to drain. Had to laugh though - the sole of my left foot looked like a seamstress' bad dream with multi-coloured threads hanging out everywhere!

My favourite little chapel was locked this morning. Sometimes open, sometimes closed, no reliable schedule. Perhaps someone is concerned that God could get in! Or, even worse, a child of God. Oh well, the real chapel is by a towering maple tree under the canopy of heaven

Ultreya

Why

2006-08-07T00:18:00.000-04:00

Why. What a wonderful question . Why would anyone walk 800+ kilometers on an old path? Why live out of a rucksack with only basic kit for 30-40 days? Why do this in a foreign country, far from home?

The simple answer is 'don't know'. I suppose, one could offer a more acceptable answer such as 'holiday' or adventure' but saying 'pilgrimage' is fun. The look on some people's faces is worth it!

Although everyone is invariably polite, you often see that little flicker in their eyes that seems to say - 'oh oh, he's losing it' or 'poor guy, must be stress in his life - probably things not going well' or 'thought he was a little weird'.

I mean, really, how can you explain this? But, if you have ever talked with people who have done it (as I have on several occasions), it's as if they intuitively know why. Can't articulate it, but the smile is genuine.

Perhaps, I will be able to answer the question when I return. But, then again, maybe not. :)

Ultreya